Survival Sullivan

If there’s one thing that everybody knows by now, it is that the military speaks English with enough strange acronyms, lingo, loanwords, and slang terms that it definitely sounds like a different language. Perhaps nowhere is this more apparent than within the Marine Corps.

Marines are lots of things, but they happen to be especially creative users of slang terminology. Some of its crude, much of it is obscure, and about half of it is downright hilarious- hilarious as long as you know they aren’t talking about you!

To help you decipher what these hard-charging jarheads are talking about I’m bringing you a list of 28 Marine slang terms that you should know.

BCG

Birth control glasses, or birth control goggles. Refers to the thick, heavy framed standard issue prescription eyewear issued to recruits during basic training. More generically refers to prescription eyewear of any kind. The acronym BCG also refers to a categorical component of small arms, the bolt carrier group.

Deck

The ground or the floor. A Navy term that refers to the deck of a ship or installation, also in constant use with the Marine Corps. See also “hit the deck!” meaning get down or take cover.

Devil Dog

A Marine. A term of endearment stretching back to at least World War I. German soldiers referred to Marines as teufel-hunden, devil dogs, in begrudging admiration of their ferocity and tenacity in war. A term of endearment or address among peers in the Marine Corps. Sometimes shortened to Devil.

Bulkhead

A wall. Refers to any wall, anywhere. Another term taken from Navy usage that refers to a vertical compartment wall or abutment on a ship.

Gear Adrift

Any unattended or lost piece of equipment or supplies. Often used as part of the jingle “gear adrift is a gift.” Refers to anything that was picked up or acquired that was not in obvious use or possession.

Also a warning to Marines to keep close watch and control over any of their issued equipment or supplies they are responsible for.

Stud Finder

A mirror.

Wookie

Any female Marine. Sometimes used pejoratively, sometimes not. Provenance unknown.

Gung-Ho

To do with enthusiasm, commitment, and intensity. When referring to an individual marine, to say that he is gung-ho means that he is capable and enthusiastic, a team player. When referring to work or effort, it means more effort is required or must be applied.

Jarhead

Colloquialism for a Marine, any Marine. Said to have originated from the appearance of their heads looking like they are sitting atop their high, tight uniform collars, akin to a jar in shape.

Nonhacker

A marine that is substandard; one who cannot get it done or cannot perform as required. Akin to “cannot hack it.” Someone who does not measure up or won’t try hard.

Broke Dick

A person or piece of equipment that is lackluster, broken, non-functional, or out of action. A significant insult when directed at a person. Often used pejoratively when a weapon, vehicle, or other piece of gear stops working suddenly due to lack of maintenance or low quality.

Hooch

A shelter, residence, abode, or any other place of staying for a short or long duration.

Nut to Butt

To stand very, very close together when in line. When information, standing nut to butt is used to minimize the amount of space that a group of Marines will take up. Used generically to refer to any human-occupied space where room is extremely limited due to crowding.

Brown Bagger

A married Marine.

Dependapotamus / Dependa

Often used pejoratively, sometimes humorously, dependapotamus and dependa refer to a dependent, a spouse, specifically a female one.

Often refers to dependents that marry young and impressionable Marines and then stop working to get fat and take advantage of housing and other benefits. Typically an insult when leveled from one woman to another.

Battle Rattle

Body armor, packs, weapons, equipment, and other gear that is carried into battle; wargear.

Geedunk

A shop, supply point, snack bar, or other such place where Marines can get food, drinks, and snacks.

Scuttlebutt

Rumors, legends, and loose talk. Also refers to a water fountain and any discussions that happen around it. See also Lance Corporal Underground.

Brig Rat

Any Marine who has spent a considerable amount of time in jail or in the brig. A belligerent and rebellious Marine. Sometimes refers to Marines with an MOS that has them working in or around the brig and other in-service correctional or detainment facilities.

Tactically Acquired

Stolen. Used to refer to how a piece of gear or supplies were acquired, and also a label applied to such things.

Ashore

To go anywhere that is not on a Marine Corps base, installation, or Navy vessel. Yes, even ones that are completely landlocked.

Someone could go ashore from a Marine Corps base if they went out into a surrounding town, for instance. Sometimes used to refer to the act of just going into town.

Hump

Refers both to the act of carrying a large load of equipment or gear, and also any march or other activity where a full load is carried…

You are humping a lot of gear if you have a full and heavy pack along with all of your other supplies. You are going on a hump if you are participating in a March where everyone is carrying lots of weight.

Moto Run

Short for motivational run. A unit or group activity or exercise designed to increase camaraderie and esprit de corps. Typically has the opposite effect.

Oo-rah

A combination of battle cry, affirmation, greeting, answer, and question. Origins are apocryphal but thought to have been spread throughout the Marine Corps by mid-20th century drill instructors.

Note that it is completely distinct, totally different, and absolutely unique compared to the US Army’s similar term, hoo-ah. Do not make this mistake when talking to Marines.

Skating

To slack off, get out of duty or shirk work. Sometimes deployed as an acronym, SKATE, meaning Stay out of trouble, Keep a low profile, Avoid responsibility, Take time off and Enjoy.

Balls

Refers to 0000. A time: midnight or zero-hundred hours. Balls refers to the appearance on a watch or clock, akin to two pairs of testicles or balls.

Hickey / 556 Hickey

A burn, often occurring on the neck which is exposed, resulting from the red-hot brass ejected from rifles and machine guns.

Name for its resemblance to a love bite, or hickey, that often occurs when kissing gets a little too amorous. 556 hickey refers to a case from a 5.56x45mm cartridge.

Barracks Bunny

A derogatory term used for any woman, including a female Marine, who sleeps around frequently or visits the barracks. So-called because they hop from bed to bed or room to room.

One of the most important and, sadly, most overlooked survival essentials in any kind of situation is communications. Don’t get me wrong, it’s great to plan to keep yourself and your loved ones alive, but what you really need to do is reach out to people who can help you one way or another.

emergency radios UV5R, Motorolas, ClipJam, and Tecsun — emergency radios: UV5R, Motorolas, ClipJam, and Tecsun

That help might be rescue, information, guidance, or just checking to see how bad things are in the next town over. Information is power, and the farther and quicker you can reach out to collect it or convey it, the better off you’ll be.

The trick, of course, is maintaining communications when the grid goes down. A loss of power and destruction of infrastructure will probably take our phones and much of the internet offline.

Luckily, you don’t have to depend on that. I’ll tell you about these tried and true grid-down alternative methods for communication below.

Walkie Talkies

You’ve seen these before. Sold at basically every outdoor store, department store, and truck stop in the nation, these simple, basic handheld radios are a little better than toys compared to some other options on our list, but they’ve got some utility.

If you just need it to keep in touch with friends or family that are down the street, around the corner, or at a distant part of a larger property, these can work just fine, but any sort of obstacles or atmospheric interference will render them useless easily.

Very cheap, but you get what you pay for. You’ll need plenty of batteries for them regardless, so stock up.

CB Radio

One of the best and most versatile options for grid-down communications is a CB radio, especially one installed in your vehicle that can make use of the onboard battery.

Unlike other kinds of radio on our list, CB radio doesn’t require a license and is pretty straightforward to pick up and use. It only has a few channels, and in areas with large populations, the airwaves get uselessly clogged, but it’s still a great option especially if you plan on bugging out in your car or truck.

The biggest downside is the limited range, typically under 5 miles even in good conditions with a decent antenna.

FRS/GMRS Radio

Family Radio Service and General Mobile Radio Service systems are a step up from CB and can offer slightly more range and capability.

FRS radios don’t require a licensing as long as you follow all rules and regulations for its use, but GMRS radios, which are the better of the two, do require an FCC license – though it is much quicker and easier to get compared to a ham radio license.

If you have a larger property, want better communications around your neighborhood or block, or are traveling in a vehicle and want to keep in touch with multiple folks in a convoy, both are good options and affordable for the performance that they offer.

Ham Radio

Ham radio, or amateur radio, is probably the single best all-around off-grid communications method you can invest in. It offers the most capability without any dependence on technological infrastructure besides another radio set to receive and communicate back to you.

Available in multiple formats, including handheld, vehicular, and base station, ranges can be extraordinary as long as you’ve got the know-how.

With the right setup, you can reach out across the county, state, nation, or even the world! The trick is you’ll need to get licensed, and you really have to know what you are doing to pass those tests.

Leveling up your license to General or Extra class will give you access to more powerful sets and more frequencies to use legally.

Satellite Phone

For straightforward communications capability, nothing beats a satellite phone, and chances are whatever is affecting you on the ground won’t touch those satellites floating safely up in orbit.

Satellite phones broadly work like normal telephones, and as long as someone can receive a call and you have a current subscription with your device, you can reach out as long as your handset can make contact with the satellites.

The downside of these devices is that they tend to be quite expensive, require a subscription as mentioned, and simply are not as versatile as radio.

Satellite Messenger

Think of a satellite messenger as sort of a satellite-based pager and text messenger. They use the same sort of infrastructure that satellite phones use to send text and simple data messages to other receiving units, and sometimes apps that can interact with other devices.

These likewise require a subscription in order to function. If you don’t want to spend a pretty penny on a satellite phone, this can be a good intermediate choice. Obviously, these are not as quick or efficient to use compared to something that is voice-based, but whether or not that’s a good trade-off is really up to you and your preferences.

Field Phone

An oldie, but a goodie. The military and other organizations have used and still do today, in circumstances, rely on field phones, literally telephone sets that are connected by hand-laid wire.

Relatively easy to connect and surprisingly robust, this is a wonderful way to connect multiple homes on a compound, a base station with a distant outpost or checkpoint, and other similar setups. These have a big advantage because they are difficult to eavesdrop on compared to radio.

The downside is that the technology is pretty old-fashioned today, and you might have to do some scrounging to come up with the components to assemble your own when the time comes.

signaling position using fingers and improvised mirror — signaling one’s position using fingers and improvised mirror

Signal Mirror

Every prepper worth the name is familiar with this piece of kit. Ostensibly used to signal to rescue planes and helicopters, or people on foot that are far away, you can use signal mirrors for basic communications with anyone as long as the sun is out.

Using simple signals, prearranged codes, Morse code, and other methods, this works wonderfully as a hasty option or if you have long sight lines where you live. If you live in the middle of the Great Plains or on a ridgeline or mountaintop, this is definitely something you’ll want to keep in your bug out bag or EDC kit.

Flares

Sometimes communication only needs to be one way. One of the single most visible methods of signaling is pyrotechnic flares.

Whether they are fired from a launcher or lit in hand and then placed on a surface or holder, these things can be seen for over a mile even in bad conditions.

Again, like using a signal mirror, if you aren’t just trying to attract attention to yourself from anyone out there, it’s best to coordinate pre-arranged signals with friends, family, and members of your group.

Panel Markers

Another simple signal and one that all preppers should make use of, a brightly colored blanket, tarp, car cover, or anything similar that can be laid flat on the ground to signal to aerial vehicles, held up, or hung up on a pole or other surfaces.

Works wonderfully for drawing attention to yourself or communicating pre-arranged signals with other people who might be looking for it.

Morse Code

You know what it is even if you don’t know how to use it. Morse code is one of the oldest and best alphabets of its type and can be employed with various other technologies, both auditory and visual.

You can use Morse code to communicate over radio, or use it with a flashlight or even lights in your home to blink out messages.

If you are stuck or trapped somewhere, you can use Morse code as an auditory signal by banging on something.

The sky’s the limit, and though it is taking a backseat in emergency communications these days, it’s still well worth your time to learn if anyone else in your group knows it too.

Semaphore

Also known as flag code, this interesting method relies on two handheld flags with the arms being held at different positions to indicate letters and numbers, almost like the hands of a clock.

Long used to communicate by ships at sea, this is another decent option if long sight lines are possible but conditions or intervening terrain make getting closer risky or impossible.

If you’ve been paying any amount of attention to the prepping sphere for the past couple of decades, you have probably seen concern over EMPs, electromagnetic pulses, rise and rise.

Sadly, they are one of the most prevalent and pressing threats going forward, one with the potential to completely collapse society at the regional and even national level.

In less than the blink of an eye, an EMP could completely destroy the electrical grid and pretty much everything that relies on electronics in any way. It sounds like the stuff of fiction, but I assure you they are very real and have happened before. But how does an EMP destroy electronics?

An electromagnetic pulse destroys electronics by inducing a high-voltage current in any conductive material. For wires, circuits, relays, coils, and semiconductors, these components simply cannot handle the voltage spike and will either begin to melt or be burned up entirely, destroying them.

You almost certainly know what an EMP does by now, but the actual science behind it might be a foreign concept to you. But I hear you, even if you’re interested in this sort of thing, keep reading, because understanding the how of an EMP can better inform you to deal with what it will do.

I’ll explain more in the rest of this article, and then you can take appropriate action to get ready for the inevitable occurrence of such an event.

What is an EMP in Scientific Terms?

In broad scientific terms, an EMP, which again stands for electromagnetic pulse, is simply any brief burst or wave of electromagnetic energy be it artificial or naturally occurring in nature.

Using the term in its most inclusive form, EMPs can be a magnetic field, electric field, or electromagnetic field, but in practical terms, we are worried most about the most powerful EMPs.

Now, these are typically created by a collapsing magnetic field that will create and induce a correspondingly high voltage in any conductive metal within the field.

As a wave, EMPs have an extremely fast rise time and long pulse duration which means that a considerable amount of energy will be transferred.

This makes EMPs a huge threat to unprotected, complex, and low-operating voltage electronics because they will be instantly and unstoppably subjected to a high-voltage current.

EMPs Induce High Voltages to All Conductive Materials

To clarify, an EMP will induce this voltage to all conductive materials and do so basically all at once for anything that is inside the field when the emanation is generated.

This means power lines and anything connected to the power grid will be subjected to a horrendous cascade of high voltage – which will be massively destructive and can cause fires from melting and overloading.

In past events, specifically the 1859 Carrington event, telegram line operators were even shocked when it occurred! And I mean shock as in electricity, not surprised!

Worse, because the field directly affects all conductive materials any electronics that are unplugged, powered down, or otherwise disconnected will still be subjected to these damaging effects unless they are shielded or protected in some way.

As an example, your PC, television, or radio that’s plugged into your wall will be overloaded instantly or nearly so from a powerful EMP that hits the electrical grid in your area, as that voltage will flow throughout the grid, into your home, and then into all connected electronics and appliances.

But even if that PC is disconnected, the pulse will still energize those incredibly fine, sensitive circuits with voltages that they were never meant to handle.

If Something Like a Circuit Can’t Handle That Voltage, it’s Damaged or Destroyed

Like any other instance, when an electrical component or any sort of electronic goods is subjected to a high voltage spike that it isn’t designed to operate with, or has no provision for dealing with, the result is going to be damage and more often destruction.

Some materials will begin to melt. Circuits will burn out. Some components will slag entirely, and intricate electronic technology that relies on a carefully optimized and balanced interplay between different systems will be thrown horribly out of whack or just offline entirely.

Complex Electronics Use Lower Voltages and are More Vulnerable

The rule of thumb is that the more advanced and intricate the electronics, or the lower operating voltage that a device is intended to use, the more vulnerable it will be to the effects of an EMP under any given set of circumstances.

On a similar note, it’s even more important that these components or devices be appropriately protected or hardened against the effects of an EMP if you want them to survive.

Even a relatively mild EMP like a common but intense solar storm, a nearby lightning strike, or the faraway detonation of a nuclear weapon might be sufficient to destroy things like this.

Simpler, High-Voltage Circuits are Much Harder to Disrupt or Destroy with an EMP

Conversely, the simpler the device is or the higher its voltage, the less sensitive it will be to an EMP.

Fginstance, something like a simple light switch, heavy-duty extension cord, or older vehicle with little or no electronics, will do much better, often suffering no or very light damage, or else just being disrupted for the duration of the EMP.

It’s not to say you shouldn’t make an attempt to protect these devices holistically from the event, but typically you won’t have to worry about them nearly as much.

Is the Damage to Electronics Caused by an EMP Permanent?

Not necessarily.

For starters, it is possible that the damage or disruption caused by an EMP might only be temporary.

For instance, we know that in testing of more modern vehicles performed at private and national labs in the United States, once they were knocked out or rendered into a malfunctioning state by the EMP it was possible to get some of them going again.

This was done simply by turning the affected car back off and then on again. In some cases disconnecting the battery, waiting for the glitched computers to reset, and then turning the vehicle back on.

Likewise, even if electronic components in some more complicated goods are fried by an EMP, replacement of the damaged ones will likely get appliances, tools, and other gear back online.

However, the components themselves that are damaged, be they a circuit board, microprocessor, magnetic switch, wires, or anything else, are themselves probably toast. That’s because the high voltage induced by the EMP will result in actual burning, melting, or potentially even catching fire. Obviously, this is disastrous for anything so affected.

Faraday Cages Protect Equipment from EMPs But Aren’t Perfect

If this sounds like you should just get used to living without electronics post-EMP, you’re not wrong, but there are things you can do.

Certain goods can be hardened against EMPs by the use of special grounding equipment, transient voltage suppressors, or overbuilding them to withstand a sudden surge of power that they normally wouldn’t operate with.

Components may also be EMP shielded by placing them inside a Faraday cage, basically a box, sleeve, or envelope of conductive material that will intercept the EMP wave and redirect it or allow it to dissipate harmlessly before it reaches the vulnerable part.

While a great strategy, especially for parts, equipment, and gear that is small and that you don’t rely on throughout your normal life, the problem is that anything that is hooked up is still vulnerable while inside a Faraday cage…

That’s because any wire, antenna, or other piece of conductive material that leads from the equipment through the cage to the outside can pick up the EMP voltage like an antenna and then transmit it inside the cage.

Solving this problem while maintaining protection is extremely challenging, technically speaking, so Faraday cages are usually only used to protect goods that are in storage.

If there’s one threat facing the nation today, one that is bound to make even the most die-hard prepper a little queasy, it has to be an EMP. Think about it: in the blink of an eye, the electrical grid could be totally destroyed, all of our electronics damaged or destroyed alongside it, and an entire society plunged into chaos.

This isn’t the stuff of fiction, and it isn’t black magic. EMPs are entirely real, and worst of all, they can be spawned by various natural events or by things as terrible as nuclear weapons and man-made generators.

It’s bad enough to make anyone want to give up, because what hope could you have of protecting yourself and your home from such a thing? As it turns out, it’s possible, but you’ve got to take the right action. Keep reading, and I’ll give you some proven tips for preparing your home for an EMP.

Invest in or Make Faraday Cages for Vital Electronics

Something you’ve probably heard about if you spent any amount of time researching EMP readiness is a Faraday cage.

A Faraday cage is nothing more than some type of container, be it a bag, box, case, canister, or other enclosure that is made out of conductive material, usually some kind of metal mesh or foil.

By placing vulnerable electronics like phones, radios, chargers, GPSs, and so forth inside it, you can actually shield them from the destructive energy of the pulse.

Obviously, this kind of capability is just solid gold for preppers. It’s possible to have devices that still work after an event like this if they were previously protected inside a Faraday cage.

Even better, you can make one yourself from basic materials – even from something as simple as a metal trash can with a metal lid.

Go through your prepping stash and pull out all of your essential electronics; put them inside these cages, and then you know you’ll be able to count on them when the time comes.

Have Backup Power Solutions Ready to Go

With absolutely no question, the first and most spectacular casualty of an EMP event is going to be the power grid. The dangerous, cascading overload that an EMP causes can result in a series of regional blackouts that will leave tens or hundreds of millions of people in the dark for the foreseeable future.

It’s a good idea to plan on going without electricity in the aftermath, but that doesn’t have to be you. If you have a liquid fuel generator or a solar array, you can still power your repaired appliances and your other gadgets that we described above, ones protected by Faraday cages.

The trick is, any personal electrical generators (solar, gas, etc.) will be vulnerable to the effects of an EMP also. You’ll need to have these things stashed and in storage, properly protected, so you can pull them out, set them up, and then put them to work.

Install Whole-House or Service Entrance Surge Protectors

One of the best and, tragically, most chronically overlooked ways to protect your home, meaning the structure itself and anything plugged in inside, from an EMP is to install a surge protector. And no, I’m not talking about those dinky little power strips you have your home entertainment system hooked up to.

There are two main types that you can install on your home or other structure: the first is a whole-house surge protector, and the other is a service entrance surge protector.

A whole-house unit, is exactly what it says, a surge protector installed at the circuit breaker box and will detect and then reroute a sudden, substantial surge of power into the ground before it flows through the wiring in your home. EMP Shield is one popular model that is rapidly growing in popularity.

The other kind of structural surge protection is a service entrance unit. Basically, this is an oversized variety that is more commonly found on commercial structures, apartment buildings, and other large installations.

This is installed before the breaker box rather than after, and it is a more involved and more expensive job. The benefit, though, is that these units are capable of shunting truly humongous power surges before they wreak havoc: a 100kA to 300kA unit should be able to deal with a powerful EMP multiple times before failing.

Both are big investments but well worth it if you’re serious about EMP prep.

Get Fire Extinguishers

This is another overlooked factor of EMP readiness. You might not know this, but the strongest EMPs, precisely the kind we are preparing for, have a tendency to cause fires.

Power lines will spark, light bulbs will burst, anything plugged into an affected electrical grid will overload, melt, and burst into flames. Imagine this happening on a regional or, worryingly, even national scale, and you can see what we’re up against.

But more immediately, all of this might be taking place in and around your home. If it does, there is not one second to waste. You’ll need to grab a good ABC-rated fire extinguisher, and probably more than one, and set to work putting out those small fires before the whole structure catches.

ABCs are rated for solid, liquid and electrical fires and are the overwhelmingly best choice for all residential applications…

Get fire extinguishers, keep them maintained and inspected, and keep them in strategic points of your home.

Make Sure Your Home is Well Grounded

Surge protection only goes so far, and in the case of either whole-house solution discussed above, you’ll need to pair them with good grounding.

Most homes are grounded as a matter of course to help protect them, to a degree, from lightning, but it is well worth the time and money to have an electrician come out to inspect and, hopefully, improve the grounding system.

Considering that an EMP might be really powerful, there could be substantial voltage flowing through a ground wire or rod and into the soil. It needs to be made of appropriate material, sufficiently thick, and maintained if you want to depend on it.

Consider a Ham Radio for Post-Event Comms

Another sad fact you’ll be able to count on in the wake of the event is that cell phone networks are going to be utterly trashed. As reliable as they are in gentler times, they’re simply too intricate and dependent on too many interconnected components and systems to avoid total destruction.

But there is still a way to communicate electronically over long distances, and that is radio. And don’t get upset just yet: I know radios are themselves electronic and inherently vulnerable to EMPs, whether or not they are plugged in. That’s why you have the Faraday cage, remember?

The cool thing about radio is that as soon as you can pull it out, assemble it, and power it up, you’ll be back on the airwaves, and so will everyone else with a radio.

This will likely be the only way to get news about what is going on and where- once people have wrapped their heads around what is happening! With dedicated emergency, first responder, police, and fire department channels, there’s also a chance you’ll be able to get in touch with authorities directly if needed – though the situation will still likely be chaos.

If your friends and family are preppers also, definitely get them on board with radio so you can get in touch ASAP.

Make Sure You Have Survival Supplies on Hand

Lastly, don’t neglect the basics. In the wake of a major EMP, society is going to very literally and figuratively be offline. You need all of the usual survival supplies, from food to water, first aid supplies to medicine, fuel for heat, and more.

And, sadly, you must plan on a long-duration event. Every element of society that we know and depend on will be shattered, and it will be quite a while before it all gets back to normal. Consider a 1-month supply the absolute bare minimum, though 6 months is better.

If you want to survive in the wilderness against all odds, you’ll have to learn how to make use of every single resource that Mother Nature places at your disposal. When it comes to food, that means things that you ordinarily wouldn’t eat in a hundred years.

Reindeer Moss is a great example. This crunchy, creepy, uh, moss, is… you know what, reindeer moss doesn’t look like moss at all. Exactly what is reindeer moss anyway?

Reindeer Moss isn’t a true moss, but instead a type of lichen, Cladonia rangiferina. Reindeer moss, like all lichens, consists of bacteria living among the growing strands of certain types of fungus, forming a symbiotic organism.

It’s hard to say where reindeer moss first got its name, or its common name that refers to it as moss in the first place. Some folks say it’s called reindeer moss because it looks like reindeer antlers. Others say it is because it’s an important food for caribou, a type of deer.

In any case, it’s not really moss but it’s really edible by people, and can save your life in certain circumstances. There’s a lot more you’ll want to learn about it, so read on below.

Are Moss and Lichens the Same Thing?

No, they are not. Mosses are actually a type of true plant, just on a tiny scale. However, they’re a sort of nonvascular plant, ones that don’t grow any flowers.

Mosses typically look like a blanket or carpet growing across an underlying surface in a dense formation. Basically, they are all leaves and not much else!

Lichens, like reindeer moss, are different though often confused for one another by the uninitiated. Lichens can take the form of either algae or certain types of bacteria that live among the filament structures of different types of fungi.

Sometimes, yeast is another component in this symbiotic relationship that forms a type of composite organism that is functionally more than the sum of its parts.

Ultimately, lichens of any type are not closely related to any type of moss or other plant life. Notably, though, when lichens do grow on plants, usually trees, they don’t parasitize them, using them only as a surface for their own existence.

Do Reindeer Really Eat Reindeer Moss?

Yes, they sure do! Like I said up above, some folks associate the name of reindeer moss with reindeer, or caribou, because they eat it.

It’s not only true, but they eat a ton of the stuff and it is a crucially important foodstuff for them when other kinds of food are scarce or totally non-existent.

And because it’s so important to caribou populations this makes reindeer moss extremely important ecologically and commercially in countries where reindeer are important livestock animals or wildlife.

Can People Safely Eat Reindeer Moss?

Yes, reindeer moss is safe for people to eat but with certain reservations we’ll talk about in a moment. It can provide you with some calories, carbohydrates, and various nutrients though good scientific information on its actual nutritional content is scarce.

The major one is that you must take care not to confuse it with any other kind of plant or fungus because a case of mistaken identity might be fatal if you wind up with a poisonous look-alike.

The presence of dangerous bacteria, if eaten raw, is another major concern, as with all wild-caught or gathered edibles.

Reindeer moss also has a tendency, if not cooked properly, to cause significant indigestion and potentially diarrhea. The chances of this go up in direct proportion to the quantity ingested.

Reindeer Moss Can Be Safely Eaten Raw

Yes, it can be if you are in a real pinch and have no way to boil it or prepare it otherwise. However, you should brace yourself.

Reindeer moss is singularly nasty when eaten raw. It is crunchy and tough at the same time, and invariably has a disgusting ashy, dirty, slimy taste to it. This is especially likely if it is growing on a rotting substrate.

However, if you brave pioneers haven’t described the flavor as woody or mushroom-like in character. The very best that you can hope for is that it just tastes bland and plain.

Can you eat reindeer lichen?

Watch this video on YouTube

Prepare This Stuff if You Can!

If you have any opportunity in the wild, you should prepare reindeer moss prior to eating it. This will make it safer, by killing harmful bacteria, and also make it taste better or at least taste less offensive.

A traditional method is to boil it for about 30 minutes, and then soak it in cool water several times, periodically changing out the water to leach out any nasty contaminants.

Reindeer moss is also dried and then ground or pounded after boiling to serve as a thickener or ingredient in various kinds of soup, stew, and porridge. You can use it to bulk up other foods and add a little bit of extra nutrients and calories.

Raccoons are a study in contrast. They are among the cutest and most charismatic animals that you’ll see, and certainly some of the peskiest. Raccoons are notorious for taking up residence in and around homes, breaking into stored food and, most annoyingly of all, getting into your trash cans.

Waking up to strewn trash and rotting food all over your driveway and the side of your house when you have somewhere to be is awful. Plus, it tends to spread disease.

Unfortunately, raccoons won’t stop once they know where they can get an easy meal, so you must take steps to keep them out of your trash cans. It’s easier said than done, but I can promise you success if you use some of these clever methods…

Remove Easy Food Sources

I can’t impress this one on you enough, and it always surprises me because of how often people forget about it.

If you feed any animals outside, be it your dog or cat, or even if you put out bird seed of any kind, you’ve got to take away those foods so raccoons aren’t attracted to them.

I know, you already knew that part, but the problem is that when raccoons show up, more tend to follow in a troop. They will wipe out this easily accessible food, and then spread out looking for more, invariably scenting your trash can.

Tightly Tie Off Bags

Raccoons have an amazing sense of smell. And I mean really extraordinary! They rely on their noses to help them find food, and even the slightest whiff of garbage is enough to draw them in from far and wide.

This is especially likely if you put fresh, appealing leftovers in your can right after dinner time. When the sun starts to go down, the raccoons come out, and they will be prowling for their own dinner!

Your first order of business is to ensure you tightly tie off your trash bags to keep as much of the odor contained as possible. Never dump loose scraps of food in your trash can because it makes it that much stinkier and more attractive to raccoons.

Also, consider using a thicker, heavier-duty bag that won’t allow as much odor to seep out. This is especially important if you know raccoons are in the area but you haven’t been targeted yet. You probably want to keep it that way!

Keep It Clean

One of the most effective ways to keep raccoons at bay, and invariably the one that most folks, including me, want to do as little as possible!

Remember what I said above about how raccoons have an excellent sense of smell and use that to home in on an easy dinner? It’s possible that your trash can, itself, just stinks!

This is especially likely if you throw loose food scraps in there or have dealt with torn-open bags previously. The nastier and more rancid your trash can is, the more likely it is to bring in the raccoons.

The next time your trash is collected, leave the can empty, break out some antibacterial cleaner, dish soap, and a long-handled brush, and clean the thing out with your garden hose.

Chances are it’ll never smell like it is factory-new again, but it doesn’t have to. Improvement is usually enough to help ward off these critters.

Tie it Down

No matter what kind of trash can you have, raccoons will figure out a way to open that lid. Don’t even think about those little snapping closures on the side keeping raccoons out.

If they’ve dealt with them before, they’ll remember, and they can pop them open just as quickly and easily as you can, and then snap the lid off. After that, they feast!

If you need a quick and easy deterrent, use bungee cords, rope, paracord, or something else to simply tie the lid down onto the top of the can.

It’s possible that by slowing raccoons down in this way, they’ll make more noise, which can allow you to run them off or simply prompt them to move on to easier food at your neighbor’s house. Sorry, neighbor!

But, don’t be surprised if this method doesn’t work for long: raccoons are quick to adapt, and can untie or just chew through most kinds of cordage to get to food.

Use Heavy Weights on Top

Another quick, improvised method, and one that can be effective for a longer duration if you don’t mind using a little muscle. Placing heavy weights on top of the lid, be it bricks, cinder blocks, or anything else, can prevent those pests from opening it entirely.

Obviously, this is pretty laborious to deal with yourself and not something you want to subject your family to going through if you have one.

Also, there are a few caveats with this one… If you’re dealing with large, strong raccoons, it isn’t out of the question they can push the weights off the side to then open the lid.

There have also been times when these critters might try to chew directly through the side of a plastic can. It’s happened before!

And, if you’re using multiple, smaller items for the requisite weight, like bricks, they might be able to remove them piecemeal.

Consider this a good option if you need a quick solution while you figure out a better bet.

Lock the Lid

If your trash can is designed for it, or if you can rig something up by drilling a few sets of holes in the lid, you shouldn’t hesitate to lock it down.

This will prevent raccoons and their dexterous little paws from untying cord wraps and figuring out other closure mechanisms. Sounds like overkill, but I promise it’s not.

These little critters are actually pretty clever and good at problem-solving! Just ask anyone who has been dealing with their nighttime visits for a while!

Note that you’ll have to use a real lock of some kind. As long as it is sturdy enough to hold the lid shut and easy for you to pop open, you can use whatever you want.

I use a combination shackle lock that has just a few digits in it so it’s really quick and easy for me to open the can. You can use a keyed padlock if you’d prefer to do that. Just don’t forget to take it off on collection day!

Stake the Can Upright

This is a supplementary method for keeping the raccoons out of your can, but an important one, especially if you’re just tying it off or using heavy weights. Make sure the trash can is parked on as level a surface as possible, and use wooden or metal stakes to help hold it upright so it can’t be knocked over.

This is a shockingly common tactic that raccoons around the country employ. They figure out really quickly that tipping the can over makes the food a lot easier to get, especially those traveling in groups. Much of the time, it will also cause stubborn lids to just pop off on their own.

Keep the can from toppling over, and you’ll go a long way to keeping the trash inside for a change.

Buy a Raccoon-Proof Can

In some areas of the country, raccoons are such an unholy menace that a cottage industry selling raccoon- and wildlife-proof cans has popped up. Engineered to be durable, stable, and absolutely impossible to open unless you are a human, you might want to upgrade sooner rather than later if you’re at your wit’s end.

The downside is that they aren’t available everywhere and tend to be pretty pricey, even compared to regular trash cans of the same size. Plus, they aren’t any good if your trash service mandates a specific size and shape of can for pickup. Do your homework before you buy…

Enclose the Trashcan

Sometimes the best defense is the most direct. If you can lock up or store your trash can somewhere that raccoons simply cannot get to it, the battle will be won even if it’s slightly less convenient for you.

Depending on your home, stashing it in the garage is a great idea, especially if you’re committed to already keeping odors down. An outbuilding like a shed or enclosed carport for a lawn tractor is another good bet.

If raccoons in your area are especially rapacious, don’t hesitate to build a simple enclosure just for the trash can. These simple structures look a little bit like a small outhouse, and if built properly, will absolutely keep raccoons out.

Of course, you’ll have to make sure they can’t open the door or latch, too!

Use Bleach

Bleach has surprising utility in your trash can, and not just for disinfecting it when it gets nasty. Turns out, raccoons, and lots of other animals, are severely put off by the aroma of this stuff.

If you’re being raided night after night, you can splash some bleach inside and around your trash can after dusk to hopefully ward off the little pests. This works especially well in conjunction with some of the other, simpler techniques on our list if you need to buy time.

Just remember that bleach breaks down quickly and will lose its effectiveness, and you also need to take care to ensure that you don’t hurt yourself or plants, or let it mix with other chemicals.

Spray Raccoon Repellent

Sometimes going with a proven product really is your best bet. It’s possible to repel raccoons through various DIY methods, but going with a species-specific repellent can make your life even easier, especially if you have pets and other animals running around.

Using a combination of laboratory-formulated ingredients and natural deterrent fragrances like predator urine, these sprays will send raccoons packing. The downside is that they require periodic reapplication, and they can also be fairly expensive.

Install Motion Lighting

Raccoons are predominantly nocturnal, and they tend to be pretty skittish even if they’re used to living around areas of human habitation.

Lighting them up while they are doing their dirty deeds might spook them and send them skittering off into the shadows. It’s definitely worth a try, and motion-activated convenience or security lighting can be just the ticket.

If you’re handy, these are easy enough to install yourself, or you might just have to reposition your existing exterior lighting or add a motion sensor to it.

The downside is that raccoons get used to it and tend to grow bold very quickly, meaning you’ll still have to fall back onto physical defenses to keep your trash totally contained.

Try a Motion-Activated Sprinkler

One of my personal favorite methods for keeping raccoons off of my trash can and out of the area is the use of a motion-activated sprinkler.

Raccoons, like most prey animals, tend to be pretty skittish and the sudden noise accompanying a blast of water will send them running for the hills much of the time.

It’s great because this is a method that you don’t have to babysit, but if you haven’t guessed already, there is a non-zero chance raccoons might get used to it or even grow to like it.

I know; it’s depressing how adaptable they are. Still, definitely worth a try and also a good option because it won’t cause them any real harm…

There are all kinds of cherished survival myths out there. I grew up hearing them, and the guys that taught them to me probably grew up hearing them. Suck the poison out of a snake bite.

two trees 5 feet apart — two trees about 4-6 feet apart

You can eat anything that animals eat. Drinking from white water is safer. The sad thing is none of these are true, or good ideas!

If there’s one good thing you can say about the internet, it is that it has made it remarkably easy-to-crush myths. Let’s look at another one, and put it to the true or false test. Does moss only grow on the north side of trees?

No, moss does not only grow on the north side of trees. It can grow on any side of any tree where conditions are ideal.

Myth busted, and with no survivors! Out of all those old-school survival myths I heard growing up, this is the one I most wanted to be true! How convenient would it be if we could just check any given tree for the growth of moss and then know where North is if we’re lost.

Sadly, it just isn’t the case… I’ll tell you more about why down below, along with some other related facts that you can add to your survival skill set.

Where Did the Idea Come From?

I’ve got to admit, this is one of those myths where there really is a grain of truth at the core of it, or I should say a grain of logic.

Moss is a surprisingly delicate plant, one that will only reliably grow when conditions are just right. And those conditions are, generally, that it needs a moist environment, one that isn’t too warm, and one that is shady.

Now, let’s think about solar mechanics for a minute. If the sun basically goes around the Earth at our equator, that means that the sunshine will be shining on the southerly sides of trees most of the time…

Accordingly, that intense heat can scorch moss and also dry up the moisture that it desperately needs to survive.

Here’s another clue: Moss is a nonvascular plant, which means that it cannot draw moisture in its environment. Instead, it only makes use of moisture that moves over it or is already present where it is growing.

So when you think of it that way, if the sun makes the southern sides of trees less favorable for moss, moss will grow on the north side, right?

Not exactly.

Does moss really only grow on the North side of a tree?

Watch this video on YouTube

Any Forest Canopy Can Create Ideal Conditions for Moss

If you were to conduct that above scenario as a laboratory experiment under controlled and contrived conditions, it would almost certainly pan out that your moss would grow on the Northern surfaces of your trees. But that’s not indicative of the real world, particularly real forests where moss tends to grow.

That’s because of forest canopies, you know, the kind created by trees, can provide plenty of sunlight-blocking shade that will enable moss to grow pretty much anywhere beneath the canopy.

Sure, there are other variables that will affect the likelihood of moss growing and thriving, like the likelihood of moisture to collect in certain places and thin spots allowing more sunlight to come through and reach the forest floor. But that does not override this entirely sensible rule of thumb.

Moss can grow anywhere on a tree as long as those growth conditions are met. Don’t believe me? Just take a look the next time you’re out in the woods.

Do Some Kinds of Moss Only Grow on the North Sides of Trees?

Nope. Another myth, but this one fabricated from whole cloth. I’ve heard it all: it is influenced by mycelium communications, the magnetic poles of the Earth, all kinds of crazy stuff. None of it is true. All kinds of moss will grow on any given side of a tree.

Moss is Only Slightly More Likely to Grow on the North Side of Trees

As I mentioned above, there is a grain of logic to this myth.

Across all locations in the Northern Hemisphere, and across the widest possible variety of conditions and all of the different varieties of moss, it’s somewhat more likely for moss to grow on the north side because the north sides of trees are slightly more likely to support those ideal conditions.

That’s true. The problem is we are talking about a tiny, and I mean tiny, statistical difference. So small that you can’t rely on this marginal difference to inform your determination of what North is. Certainly not for navigation, and not even the northern quadrant of a tree trunk.

In the Southern Hemisphere, Moss is More Likely to Grow on the South Side of Trees!

Worse yet, if we were to head it south of the equator, what do you think would happen to this myth? That’s right, it would be reversed!

Because the sun is shining more often on the northerly sides of trees, the southern side of them becomes the side that is more likely to be ideal for the growth of moss.

But, just like the example I gave in the previous section, this is such a statistically small difference that it’s useless from a survival skill set perspective.

Don’t even try to use it for navigational purposes.

Just Get a Compass!

At the end of the day, moss isn’t something you should rely on in any context, ever, to help you figure out which way is which.

You know what will help you do that? A compass, and that’s why you should get one. A tiny button compass attached to your watch band or in a pocket survival kit will go a long way to keeping you from getting lost in the woods.

Whether you are bugging out, evacuating from a disaster, practicing your escape and evasion routes, or just heading out on a road trip, sometimes you get tired behind the wheel and need to pull over for some shut-eye.

But one thing to consider, and something most people don’t, is whether or not sleeping in your car is illegal. In the wrong circumstances, this could be a really big deal! So what’s the word? Is it legal or illegal to sleep in your vehicle?

It’s generally legal to sleep in your car at the federal and state levels, but some states do have laws on the books that make it illegal to sleep in your car under at least some circumstances. Local laws on the practice also vary considerably.

As a rule of thumb, as long as you are pulled over in an appropriate place and not breaking any other laws, it’s a-okay to sleep in your vehicle. But you should not assume that it is.

If you’re in the wrong town, on the wrong property, or are drawing suspicion, you’ll likely be told to move along or even fined. There’s a whole lot more you need to know on the subject before you catch some Z’s in your car, so keep reading.

Is it Illegal to Sleep in Your Car at the Federal Level?

No, it isn’t. There are no federal laws that make it overtly illegal to sleep in your car or any other vehicle as long as you aren’t breaking any other laws in the process. However, if you are trespassing on Federal Land and catching some shut-eye, you’re still breaking federal law.

Is it Illegal to Sleep in Your Car at the State Level?

In some states, yes, but not in most of them. I should also point out that no state has laws on the books that make it flat-out illegal, no questions asked, to sleep in your vehicle.

It’s the circumstances or places that make sleeping in your vehicle illegal, though, and you’ll have to take the time to check out your state’s laws. More on that in the following sections…

Is it Illegal to Sleep in Your Car in California?

No. Broadly, it is legal to sleep in your vehicle throughout most of California and in most places. However, all state and local laws on trespassing apply, and you must be very sure that you aren’t sleeping on private property without permission.

Also, California has a lot of laws concerning homelessness on the books, and there are many situations where sleeping in your car might fall under the jurisdiction of those homelessness laws, so be sure to check those out too.

Is it Illegal to Sleep in Your Car in Florida?

No, but on a limited basis. Florida has several laws concerning car sleeping but generally, as long as you aren’t violating any parking statutes or parked somewhere you don’t belong or haven’t paid to access, there won’t be a problem.

Note that Florida has prohibitions against camping illegally in state parks and public land, and as a rule, you cannot camp on a beach overnight unless it is a specifically designated campsite.

Is it Illegal to Sleep in Your Car in Missouri?

No. At least, there are no state-level laws against doing so assuming you aren’t breaking any other laws. As always, be mindful of where you’re parking, and do not trespass.

Is it Illegal to Sleep in Your Car in Texas?

No, it isn’t. By and large, it is totally legal to sleep in your car in Texas wherever you happen to be, but you must follow all laws concerning loitering, trespassing, parking, and so on.

Local Laws on Car Sleeping Vary Significantly!

Here’s where things get tricky if you want to sleep in your car. Federal and state laws typically aren’t a problem, but local laws might be.

Many municipalities(see pages 41 to 43), be they at the county or city level, have instituted laws that can affect sleeping in your car under various circumstances.

For instance, you might simply not be allowed to sleep in public at all, or sleep in public after nightfall. That’s the case in Louisville, Kentucky, for instance. Whether or not you are in your car makes no difference.

Likewise, laws on loitering might come into play, as well as laws against prolonged sitting or lying down in public spaces.

There’s just no telling how the interactions of these laws might affect you when it comes to sleeping in your car. The only thing to do is look up all of the relevant laws in the areas where you are living, working, traveling, or visiting.

If you’re in doubt, look for a spot that you know is okay to park to get some shut-eye, but keep in mind that that won’t necessarily protect you from those laws.

Police and Security Personnel Might Not Want You Around

At the end of the day, regardless of where you are and whether or not it is legal, police and private security forces simply might not want you around. If it’s suspicious, drawing the wrong kind of attention or interfering with other people in some way, they might tell you to move along.

Can You Sleep at the Wheel of Your Car?

Yes, though there are likely some state and local laws against this regardless of where you happen to be sleeping.

But, as a rule of thumb, assuming you are pulled over in a safe and permitted spot, there’s nothing wrong with leaning your seat back and catching some shut-eye in the driver’s seat.

Can You Pull Over and Sleep if You Are Tired?

Yes, you can, and especially if you are traveling on the interstate. Pretty much every state has rest stops, welcome centers, and other pull-offs specifically for this occasion.

You should never simply pull over to the side of the highway to get some sleep if there is any way whatsoever to avoid it. Not only is it very dangerous, but it is also likely illegal.

Is it Okay to Sleep at Rest Stops and Welcome Centers?

Absolutely. That’s what they are there for, as mentioned above! If you’re tired or groggy, or just need to head to a spot that you know is safe and permissible for sleeping in your vehicle, they’re a great choice.

Many of them also have around-the-clock security, which is great if you need some extra assurance before you get some shut-eye.

Can You Sleep in Your Car at Camp Sites?

Yes, assuming that vehicles are allowed at the campsite. Car camping has been a popular activity for some years now, and getting more popular all the time. Accordingly, many municipalities, states, and private enterprises have sprung up to enable people to do just that.

The trick is you need to know whether or not your campsite charges money for the reservation. If they do, you’ve got to pay up, or else you can be towed, ticketed, or even have charges pressed against you.

Public campgrounds in state and national parks are a great bet, especially if you want to save money, but you might not be able to stay at them long-term, so check.

Watch Out for Places Where You Shouldn’t Park at All

I hope it would be obvious, but no matter where you are and what the legal synopsis is for car sleeping, there are a few places where you should avoid sleeping at all.

No Parking Signs. Talk about a low-IQ move! If there’s a “no parking” sign, anywhere, and you park there to go to sleep, don’t be surprised if you get hassled by the police, ticketed, or even get your car towed. Please use some common sense!
Metered Spots. Metered spots are a bad idea for car camping, even though you might think that would give you a certain legal claim to the spot since you are paying for it. They tend to be in public areas of high traffic where parking spots are limited, and you snoozing away in your vehicle will quickly draw attention from passersby, meter maids, and law enforcement. Just don’t do it!
Private Property. If you don’t have explicit permission to be there, and be there for a given length of time, don’t risk sleeping on private property. If you get caught, trespassing charges can be substantial, even felony level depending on the state you’re in. Plus, you can be confronted by law enforcement if they get called on you, or just an angry and possibly armed landowner.
Gated / Time-Restricted Lots. Any gated or time-restricted lot that you’re able to get access to will typically have periodic patrols performed by employees, security forces, or law enforcement. It’s tempting to scoot off to an airport lot if you just need some time to rest and be alone, and that’s a valid strategy if you’re traveling long-term or roughing it in your car – but you need to be cautious of parking garages and other facilities.

With vehicles being such a fixture in most folks’ bug-out plans, the idea of the true vehicular bug-out, where you sleep in your car if needed or are forced to evacuate from a disaster, is gaining in popularity. Plus, sometimes, you’re just tired and need to pull over to get a nap in.

dog looking at pick-up truck across flooded road

The issue is that some people assert that cars generate dangerous carbon monoxide gas, and it might affect you if you’re inside it while it’s parked. Is that the truth? Do cars make carbon monoxide gas?

Yes, cars do generate carbon monoxide gas as a byproduct of combustion, but this gas is present in exhaust normally. It can be a health hazard or even deadly if allowed to accumulate inside a sealed cabin or enclosed space.

Much of the time, you don’t have to worry about CO gas coming from your car in normal operation. But in certain circumstances where you are parked, have the windows rolled up, and the engine still running, it could be a threat.

This is something you must watch out for and learn how to mitigate if needed. Keep reading, and I’ll tell you everything you need to know.

What is Carbon Monoxide, Exactly? And Is It Dangerous?

Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless gas consisting of a single carbon molecule and a single oxygen molecule. It’s a common byproduct of combustion in all sorts of things that burn, including the fuels we use in our vehicles.

This stuff is absolutely notorious as a silent and truly deadly killer. When inhaled, it blocks oxygen molecules from being absorbed by your body tissues, including your organs.

It’s odorless, colorless, and tasteless, and you often cannot even tell you’re being affected until it’s too late because symptoms don’t always manifest right away.

If you notice you have an unusual headache, feel unusually tired, or nauseous, or start to suffer from memory or cognitive problems, or if anyone around you is having a seizure, you are likely being affected by carbon monoxide. It often kills people while they are asleep, because they simply never wake up as they are poisoned.

The stuff is bad news, and that’s why you must take the issue of staying in your car with the windows rolled up so seriously if the engine is running.

All Vehicles Produce It in Their Exhaust

To be perfectly clear, all common internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicles produce carbon monoxide in their exhaust. If it uses an internal combustion engine, carbon monoxide is going to be a byproduct no matter the fuel: gasoline, diesel, propane, coal, alcohol, kerosene, whatever.

Accordingly, no matter what kind of vehicle you’ve got, you must follow the same procedures for staying safe from it.

Being Inside a Vehicle with the Engine Running Can Expose You to CO Gas

If you’re driving down the road normally, or sitting there idling in the open with the windows cracked and the air conditioner or heater running, you have little to fear from carbon monoxide.

That’s because most cars that are in good repair don’t emit very much in a way that can leak into the cabin, and you’re pumping fresh air into the cabin anyway. As long as you get plenty of air, there won’t be a problem.

The hazard starts to increase if the vehicle is not in good repair, has an exhaust leak, is burning rich, or is just a type that emits tons of exhaust gases in normal operation. When you have the windows up and no fresh air moving into the cabin, this is where things start to get dicey…

Exposure Rates Are Much Higher in Deep Water, Snow, or Mud

The most common causes of accidental carbon monoxide poisoning in a vehicle are when people have the engine running and are sitting in deep snow, water, mud – anything else that can block up the tailpipe.

This will allow those gases to slowly start creeping into the passenger compartment and poisoning the occupants.

Sure, you might start noticing you feel bad over time, and can crack the windows to let in plenty of fresh air, but if you’re stuck in a bad situation and put your seat back to take a nap, you might not ever wake up.

As long as the tailpipe of your vehicle is clear and the exhaust system and engine are functioning normally, you don’t have much to worry about even with the windows up, but anytime you might be bogged down or snowed in, be alert.

Never Run the Engine Inside an Enclosed Space

One thing you must never, ever do in any vehicle, no matter what kind and no matter what the reason, is run it inside an enclosed space.

If you sit inside a garage, shipping container, or any other structure that will not allow for adequate ventilation and run the engine, the space will fill up very rapidly with deadly gases, and you’ll soon be suffering from CO poisoning.

This is how some people choose to end their own lives, and it’s known to be an effective method for doing so, especially in a small garage that is tightly sealed. It won’t take long for you to be compromised by the CO gas, and then potentially pass out.

From that point, you’re probably done for because this stuff is heavier than air, and tends to accumulate near the floor or ground, meaning folks who succumb to it in such a space are as good as goners.

Never, ever run your vehicle inside any enclosed space for any reason, even in an emergency!

One of the biggest and scariest mega-disasters that can potentially occur in our era is an EMP. An EMP, or electromagnetic pulse, is a massive surge of energy that can overload electrical grids and disable, damage, or destroy electronic components and many of the things we use every day and rely on.

But EMPs of the magnitude we’re worried about are poorly understood. What we need to know is whether or not the gear we depend on as preppers will work in the aftermath. How about something like walkie-talkies? Will they work post EMP blast?

Possibly. Walkie-talkies might function after an EMP or they might not. It depends on the strength of the EMP, the distance from the source, whether or not the unit is shielded, and if any EMP protective measures like Faraday cages were used.

Contrary to popular belief, the occurrence of an EMP is not a guaranteed “death sentence” for your walkie-talkies…

You might be able to turn them on and get on the air immediately after it happens. Or your EMPs might be fried beyond all hope of repair. It just depends. To help you figure all of this out and make an informed decision, I’ll be telling you a lot more about the risk factors below…

How are Walkie-Talkies Vulnerable to EMPs?

Walkie-talkies are vulnerable to EMPs, and accordingly electromagnetic energy generally, for the same reason that most other electronics are. They need a certain amount of voltage to operate, and if they are overloaded, it can result in damage or even outright destruction of vital components.

Also, the antenna that our handhelds need in order to function at all, including the receiving and the transmission of signals, is potentially a big problem. An Achilles’ heel, if you will.

Basically, the antenna itself can, depending on its design and materials, be damaged by the EMP, but it will also channel that energy into the walkie-talkie, potentially frying it if the event is strong enough.

Factors Influencing Vulnerability to EMPs

There are several things that influence or even determine EMP vulnerability….

The first is how powerful the EMP is. They certainly are not equal in strength! An EMP resulting from a nearby lightning strike might be potent, but it is very brief and highly localized, likely only to cause temporary interference or damage if it is very close or a direct hit.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, EMPs generated by the detonation of a nuclear warhead, a non-nuclear EMP generator weapon, or phenomenally powerful solar events could overload, disable, or destroy electronics, including walkie-talkies, many miles away from the point of origin.

The design of the unit in question also makes a big difference. Good manufacturers that use intelligent design, shield vulnerable components, and choose more resilient materials to build the radios. These higher-end units will be somewhat more resistant to all kinds of EMPs, and might be able to resist low-level or weaker emissions entirely.

Likewise, the presence of any materials or obstacles that could impede or block the electromagnetic energy between the walkie-talkie and the emanation could make a big difference.

Walkie-Talkies on a Charger are Very Vulnerable

More than anything else, your walkie-talkies are likely going to be toast if they are on a charger when the EMP hits.

Basically, the electrical grid will be dangerously overcharged when it occurs, and that current has to go somewhere. Any devices connected to the grid by being plugged in, on a charger, or otherwise hooked up will be overloaded to the point that they might catch fire.

It might be possible to protect walkie-talkies on a charger by using heavy-duty surge protectors for the purpose, but most of these devices aren’t tested in a way that will guarantee protection from the most potent EMP events.

A better bet is to keep your walkie-talkies off the charger and turned off themselves, and keep a supply of charged batteries ready to go, rotating your cells through the charging process so you aren’t risking the walkie-talkies, or all of their batteries, directly.

How Can You Protect Your Walkie-Talkies from an EMP?

You have a couple of good methods for protecting your walkie-talkies, and one of them directly concerns the manufacturer of the units themselves.

For starters, consider the installation of EMP -resistant shielding if your model can make use of it. These devices enable the radios and other systems they protect to withstand a certain amount of energy without being damaged or destroyed.

Basically, they ruggedize your unit against an EMP’s effects.. EMP shielding devices consist of special conductive materials placed around or between vulnerable components that will block or basically redirect the EMP energy from reaching sensitive parts.

However, this shielding is usually only proof against a certain level of energy. It might not save your walkie-talkies from the big one.

Also, you must make sure that your antenna is rated as EMP protective or resistant. This will prevent the antenna itself from being damaged, and also make it less likely that it will channel the destructive current into the body of the walkie-talkie where it can cause havoc.

Lastly, consider keeping your walkie-talkies in a Faraday cage, or Faraday bag. This is a box or bag that’s made from or integrates conductive material on all sides, forming a protective bubble, if you will, around the walkie-talkies.

Once the EMP has subsided, you should be able to remove your walkie-talkies and expect them to work normally.

There is Much Uncertainty About the Most Powerful EMP Events

One last thing to keep in mind, reader. The simple fact of the matter is that there is a whole lot we do not know, not really, about how bad the most powerful EMP events can be. I’m talking stuff like a huge solar storm or a high-altitude nuclear warhead detonation, or the high-altitude deployment of an EMP generator weapon.

Any of those events could dramatically intensify the electromagnetic energy that will be affecting our grid and electronics.

Ultimately, we have a lot of theory to go off of, but precious little experience. And if any governments have done their own testing about the likely effects of these events, they are not telling us, poor civilians.

Your best bet is to go for broke: if you want assurance your walkie-talkies will work in the aftermath, keep them inside a good Faraday cage along with their batteries or power supplies.

You won't be able to get these critical items post-collapse.

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