Body Armor for Preppers and SHTF: What You Should Know

You’re sitting at home, then all the sudden you see a news broadcast saying the economy has collapsed. You’re shocked, not quite sure what exactly is about to take place. Then, you change the channel and see mass panic in cities. There are riots in the streets, people looting to get supplies, stealing electronics, absolute chaos.

This is it, this is what you’ve been prepping for. You’re nervous but excited to see all of your hard work finally put to good use. You call your family and tell them to meet you at the house.

You start getting your gear ready, bringing it out to your car. All of your bug-out bags, INCH bags, and medical bags, all piled into your bug-out vehicle. Your family arrives, and once you finish gathering all of their necessities, you head out to your BOL.

You can see your beautiful BOL as you pull up, and you tell your family to wait in the vehicle as you stop.

You get out, walk cautiously up to your BOL as you get ready to clear it, then you hear a loud bang. You’ve been shot in the chest by a looter who’s already claimed your BOL as his own.

Now, you must watch your family scream and cry from the vehicle as they try to run to help you. What happens to them is now at the mercy of the looter that’s set his defense up in your BOL.

All of this could have been avoided if you had saved money and invested in body armor, instead of that $5 coffee you get on your way to work every day. There’s a saying when it comes to body armor in the Infantry, “it’s better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it”.

In what follows, I’ll try to show you not only that body armor is definitely worth it for SHTF, I’ll also show you what to get. But before we get into that…

Body Armor Myths

There are many myths that revolve around body armor that you should know about, because believing them could end up getting you killed. When it’s your job to get shot at, you pick up on some tips and tricks about body armor.

Myth One: Homemade Body Armor is Just as Effective as Store-Bought

First off, if you believe this, you need a slap in the face. Purchased body armor is factory-pressed and made to be lightweight and effective. If you make body armor yourself, you’re placing your life (or the life of loved ones) in your hands.

This may sound appealing, but if you mess up one single step, your body armor will be rendered ineffective. Just like how you wouldn’t go through the trouble of making your own beer (most of the time) to taste like Budweiser, you leave it to the experts to do their jobs.

Myth Two: Kevlar Vests are Just as Effective as SAPI (Small Arms Protective Insert) Plates

This is a common myth in the prepping community, but a myth nonetheless. The most protection you can get from soft body armor is with the III-A rating. This rating only grants protection for up to a .44 magnum semi-jacketed hollow point at 1,400 fps. Most rifles would penetrate soft armor if used alone.

This is a major downfall for preppers, as most of your threats would be carrying rifles post-collapse. On the other side of the spectrum, SAPI plates can grant protection of up to 7.62 x 39mm M61 AP (Armor Penetrating) at 2,780 fps. If SHTF, what body armor would you grab if left side by side?

Myth Three: You Can Conceal Kevlar Vests Under Your Clothing

When I read this on a prepper forum, I literally laughed out loud. Most effective Kevlar vests stick out like a sore thumb underneath clothing.

Think of it this way, police officers wear Kevlar vests underneath their uniforms (most of the time). Anyone who looks at a cop can easily see their body armor underneath their shirts. If shit’s going south enough for you to have to grab body armor, why bother trying to conceal it anyway?

The entire reason I agreed to write this article is to save your life. There are way too many rumors and myths regarding body armor online, and without a proper source to tell you otherwise, you’re not at fault for believing them. Now, let’s get into the fun stuff.

Your Mission Drives the Gear Choices

The fact is that the majority of individuals do not require body armor on a daily basis. Yes, you may make an educated and well-founded argument that body armor is required for certain vocations or situations.

Body armor is required for police officers, security guards, ATM service personnel, armored car drivers, bouncers, and other professions where threats are endemic.

Body armor, in certain cases, can be a good idea even if it doesn’t appear to make sense to the uninitiated.

Body armor is strongly advised for those who work on public or private shooting ranges because being around live weapons all the time raises the chances of an accident (read: gunshot wound) proportionally, even though no one is trying to shoot them purposefully.

However, in the case of a “normal” person who simply wants to be prepared for anything, whether it’s daily perils or genuine SHTF scenarios like societal collapse or a region-wide breakdown in law and order, this is an issue that is more difficult.

If you know people will shoot at you, or there’s a good chance you’ll get shot at, body armor will be appreciated no matter what you do.

There is no crystal ball that can tell you when body armor should be always be worn, and when it should not be worn. I’d like to look into that myself, but things just aren’t that easy!

Body armor usage is complicated, and there are several factors to consider.

Some people wear their body armor at all times if they have any concerns about living in a high-risk area. Others only put it on in the same place if they know an assault is coming.

In a word, the only situation in which I feel body armor is necessary is a crowded city environment where there’s a possibility of gunfire coming from any direction and that may be continuous.

Combat in built-up areas presents risks that go beyond what the average person can comprehend. There are several locations where bullets might be stopped, but there are also many lines of fire to deal with.

Body armor is a cheap life insurance policy since you’ll be operating and surviving alone or in a small group.

Body armor, on the other hand, is a poor choice in many situations.

In contrast to urban and suburban areas, body armoring makes less sense in rural and jungle regions, or any area where the terrain is tough and the weather puts a considerable strain on the body.

The weight of your body armor will make you even more sweaty, straining you and depleting your energy levels even faster.

When you’re already loaded for bear with other gear, food, and ammunition, it will add yet another considerable weight to your load.

This is not something you should shrug off lightly. A full set of body armor can weigh anywhere from 20 to 50 pounds, and that’s a lot of weight to be carrying around on your back when you’re already tired from trekking through the wilderness.

And finally, there is always the danger of becoming so used to wearing body armor that you start to feel invulnerable. This false sense of security can be deadly in an SHTF situation.

You need to carefully consider all of the pros and cons of wearing body armor before deciding whether or not it’s right for you.

As I mentioned earlier, there is no one-size-fits-all answer to this question. You need to take into account your own personal situation, the risks that you face, and the environment in which you will be operating.

Only then can you make an informed decision about whether or not to wear body armor.

Body Armor Must Be Carefully Chosen for Specific Threats

Another factor that is frequently overlooked by people who are unfamiliar with ballistic protection is the fact that body armor isn’t all equally capable in all the same ways.

The rating and sort of body armor you choose will have a big influence on how it can be worn and when it may be used. Hard body armor is different than soft body armor, and though often complementary and often worn together a thorough understanding of performance envelopes is essential.

For instance, light, thin “bulletproof vests” may be readily slipped on and tucked under regular clothing, but they are only capable of stopping moderate handgun projectiles such as. 22 LR, 25ACP, 32ACP, 380ACP, 9mm and 38 Spl.

Such a vest will not protect against high-velocity projectiles or magnums, and it will not protect you against buckshot, shotgun slugs, or rifle fire. Long guns make mincemeat of these vests, and the people wearing them!

Ceramic or steel hard armor plates, on the other hand, can effectively stop high-velocity rifle fire and hefty projectiles like shotgun slugs or large shot, perhaps even several shots’ worth of weight and bulk.

They also require a heavy-duty carrier because of their weight and size, which makes it difficult to hide them except under the most enormous outer clothing if you can conceal them at all.

If your protection is insufficient against more powerful or larger types of small arms because you must stay low profile or “gray man”, it will not provide much resistance to heavier weapons.

It is worth noting that soft body armor, even that rated for high-velocity handguns will not stop knives and spikes!

To get protection against knife attacks, you’ll need a “stab and shank” resistant package. Hard armor, as expected, is proof against pretty much any human-driven edge or point but the soft armor around it in a carrier is likely not!

So, as you can see, there is more to body armor than just buying a piece of gear and wearing it. You need to carefully consider the threats that you face and choose the armor that is best suited for those threats.

If you don’t do your homework, you may find yourself vulnerable to attack from firearms or other weapons that your armor cannot handle!

Comparing Hard Armor: Steel vs. Ceramic

Probably the hottest and most contentious topic today in the realm of body armor, particularly hard armor, is steel vs. ceramic plates. The ballistic capabilities and relative merits of these two materials have been debated extensively for many years now, with no clear resolution.

Steel has been around much longer than ceramic and is generally much cheaper, but it is also heavier and can rust if not properly maintained.

Ceramic is lighter than steel but more expensive, and is non-conductive so it won’t cause burns if you come in contact with live electrical wiring.

Steel has an edge when it comes to reliable multi-hit capability but suffers badly against the highest velocity threats. 5.56mm from a 20″ barrel can easily defeat the best steel armor packages around today.

Both materials have their pros and cons, and the final decision on which to choose will depend on your own specific needs and situation.

As a general rule, though, ceramic plates are considered to be superior to steel plates because they are lighter, afford better protection with fewer secondary hazards (spalling and frag), and less likely to corrode.

However, ceramic plates are also more brittle than steel plates, so might be rendered less capable or useless if dropped or mishandled.

These shortcomings on both sides of the argument can be minimized through the use of specialty coatings and treatments, but that only drives up the cost and further complicates an already complex issue.

Steel armor manufacturers claim that anti-spall coatings virtually eliminate the risk posed by secondary frag and spalling from impact, and back up these claims with highly sensational field testing.

Experts who decry the use of steel armor are quick to refute them with testing of their own.

In the end, the consumer is left to roll the dice on this factor. The best way to find out what will work best for you is to consult with an expert in the field.

Ultimately, it is up to the individual prepper to do his or her own research and make an informed decision on what type of body armor is best for them.

There are many factors to consider, and no one right answer for everyone. With the increasing frequency of significant violence in America, and with SHTF scenarios always a possibility, it is more important than ever to be as prepared as possible.

The preponderance of rifles and shotguns is also a major consideration. Having some level of rifle-defeating ballistic protection, even if it’s just an AR500 armor steel plate in a carrier, can give you the peace of mind that you and your loved ones are a little safer in case the unthinkable happens.

Only Buy When You Have Determined Your Legit Needs

Body armor is only one layer of protection, however, and you must have a comprehensive strategy that includes training, situational awareness, and evasion methods in place. If you find yourself out in the open with no place to hide, body armor will be of little use.

At the end of the day, it is up to you and your specific goals regarding whether or not body armor should be included in your prepper gear.

There’s no such thing as a one-size-fits-all solution, as I’ve said before. You must carefully assess your environment’s dangers and tailor your protection to match them.

Plates and body armor are not ideal for every situation, but they are always preferable to having neither. In the end, it is up to you and your specific objectives to determine whether or not body armor should be included in your prepper gear.

There is no one-size-fits-all solution as I’ve said previously. You must carefully evaluate the dangers that exist in your particular area and tailor your protection to meet them.

So, is body armor worth the expense for preppers? When all of the preparations necessary to be ready for a variety of dangers and calamities are taken into account, should body armor be prioritized or not?

In a nutshell, I believe that only in an urban environment with a high risk of gunfire that may come from anywhere, is body armor required.

It is certain that body armor has a role in prepping, particularly for those who run a higher risk of facing ballistic threats, but when and where it makes the most sense to wear it must be determined.

Consider how likely you are to be shot at and what sort of projectiles you’ll likely face if you’re establishing a baseline for informing your SOP.

The issue of body armor is considerably more complicated than it appears. The question of whether or not it’s better to have it when you’re under fire has no simple answer.

Plate Carriers

While it is possible to just tape SAPI plates to your body, it’s extremely impractical. Therefore, plate carriers are important, so you can strap your SAPI plates to your body.

There are hundreds of plate carriers on the market. Like anything, some brands are better than others.

Don’t make the mistake of buying an airsoft plate carrier for your real-life prepping. Airsoft plate carriers aren’t designed to carry SAPI plates, and have a higher chance of tearing after rugged use.

One brand that I’ve grown to love over my years of experience is a brand called “ATS Tactical”.

I bought a plate carrier from them in 2014, and have had it ever since. It’s gone through multiple training cycles, as well as real-life tests. Not once have I had to replace it, and it still sustains rugged use to this day.

ATS is my absolute favorite, and most recommended brand for plate carriers, as well as any other items you could use for prepping (pouches, belts, vests, etc.).

The ATS Aegis Plate Carrier V2 is the newest model of plate carrier from ATS, and is the one I wear and love.  They come in five sizes (small, medium, large, 10×12, and XL), making them available for preppers of all shapes and sizes.

They feature MOLLE (Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment) compatibility on the front, back, and sides of the plate carrier making them a great foundation to add more pouches and equipment directly onto the carrier itself.

Another great feature of the Aegis V2 is their side SAPI plate compatibility. They can fit side SAPI plates up to a 6×6 size in their side compartment offering added protection for its wearer.

On top of all these features, they offer a thin closed-cell foam pad between your body and the plate carrier. This offers added comfortability, as well as mobility for its wearers.

All ATS products offer a lifetime warranty against defects in manufacturing and workmanship, so if your plate carrier tears, they’ll fix it for free. Average price: $230.

SAPI Plates

SAPI plates offer the best protection for their class of body armor. While there are other types of body armor that offer more protection, SAPI plates are unbeatable for their protection in a lightweight, agile design.

Most SAPI plates are made of either boron carbide, or silicon carbide ceramic as their base. This allows more protection for their user while remaining lightweight compared to their steel-plate counterparts.

SAPI plates are designed to crack upon impact, thus dispersing the shock throughout the plate itself. This impact dispersion enables the user to continue fighting without feeling the incredible impact of a round striking them.

While some people may believe this renders them useless after the first round impacts them, that’s far from the truth.

In the military, do you think we’re going to be able to turn them in for new ones right away after we take a round to the plate?

No, we continue fighting and trade them in for new ones when we get back to a FOB (forward operating base).

If you’re going to use SAPI plates, I highly recommend using them in conjunction with soft armor between the plates, and your chest. This allows added protection in case the plate shatters due to an AP (Armor Penetration) round striking it.

Also, you can get Kevlar cut to size for your ATS plate carrier for $280 for front and back. I wouldn’t risk my life relying on just one form of bulletproof material in an SHTF scenario, and neither should you.


If you’re preparing for a gunfight, you don’t think the enemy is going to aim just for your chest, do you? There are many reasons why you should consider protection for your head, not just for bullets.

If you’re walking through the wilderness after you bug out, the odds of you encountering another prepper (or looter) are decently high. The odds of that person having some type of explosive are also high enough to cause concern for shrapnel.

Any type of sharp (or blunt) object flying at your head at a high rate of speed has the chance to kill or seriously injure you. Thus, having a ballistic helmet is a great investment as a prepper.

The best style of helmet for preppers is a mid-cut ballistic helmet. This way you have a great area of protection, as well as optimizing weight-reduction and maneuverability. Most mid-cut helmets come with ARCs (Accessory Rail Connectors) that offer added attachment capabilities.

For mid-cut helmets, I recommend the Ops-Core Sentry Mid Cut Helmet. Ops-Core is a brand trusted by many avid preppers, as well as some law enforcement agencies and militias.

Although they’re a bit pricey (averaging $1,050 per helmet), their protection and comfortability are unmatched in their market. They offer level III-A protection against up to .44 magnum at 1,400 fps, making it a great level of protection for small arms engagements. An added bonus, they look identical to helmets used by SOF (Special Operations Forces).

For helmet attachments, I recommend the Surefire HL1-A-TN Tactical Helmet Light. I’ve used this light personally and have nothing but good things to say about it. Despite this, there are some mixed reviews about it on Amazon.

When used properly, I don’t see why you should have an issue with any Surefire Tac-light as they are built to withstand rugged use. The HL1 offers a white LED (with multiple light brightness settings), a blue LED (with multiple light brightness settings), and a blinking red infrared light (only visible with night vision optics aka NODs). Average price: $120.

Flame-Resistant Gloves

Disclosure: This post has links to 3rd party websites, so I may get a commission if you buy through those links. Survival Sullivan is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. See my full disclosure for more.

When it comes to shooting a weapon (especially a rifle), gloves are a necessity. The reason you’ll want flame-resistant gloves, however, is because your barrel can become incredibly hot during an engagement. You don’t want to be that guy that burns your hand because you were too stubborn to wear gloves (I was that guy), it hurts.

Gloves don’t have to be uncomfortable, or too pricey for a prepper. Mechanix M-Pact Covert Tactical Gloves cost an average of $35 for a pair, and are incredibly durable. For two years as an Infantryman, I was an M249 SAW (Squad Automatic Weapon) gunner.

The M249 is a great machine gun but takes a terrible toll on gloves. Once I got a pair of Mechanix gloves, I haven’t had to replace them since. Because of this, Mechanix gloves definitely get my stamp of approval.

While Mechanix gloves aren’t the only reliable tactical gloves on the market, they’re definitely the most affordable for their durability.

Oakley Men’s Factory Pilot Gloves offer a great amount of protection while incorporating a hard shell on the wearer’s knuckles compared to the Mechanix’s gel knuckle protection. These gloves cost on average $55-$75 for a pair, making them still affordable (however, not my first choice).

Unnecessary Body Armor

While body armor is a legitimate necessity for preppers, there are some items that you shouldn’t waste your money on. You don’t need a full juggernaut suit to cover your vital organs.

If you do, you’ll look ridiculous and you’ll weigh yourself down. Any added weight over a long-distance movement can seem back-breaking, so stick to the essentials. The following list consists of items that aren’t necessary for your survival needs.

  • Knee, and elbow pads (unless you require them for bad joints)
  • DAPS (Deltoid and Axillary Protector System)
  • Groin Kevlar
  • Neck Kevlar
  • Expensive Ear-pro (ear protection) and Eye-pro (eye protection)

Decking yourself out in the most body armor possible is a waste of money and energy. Some people like to buy these items to look cool, but end up being laughed at by us professionals.

They’re not necessary, and will end up costing you a lot of money that you could have used for other prepping essentials. Regular body armor alone will cost you enough money, don’t spend it on items you don’t need.

Special Considerations

While there are basics when it comes to body armor, there are also supplementary items that you can acquire that will make your kit (body armor) more efficient. Items like these are not essential. However, they can be a great help and luxury when you must wear your kit for long periods of time.

Magazine Pouches

The standard combat load for a United States Infantryman’s M4 (5.56mm) is 210 rounds (seven 30-round magazines). This amount of ammunition is enough to sustain someone for a mid to long-term engagement, and I recommend it for preppers.

If you train your body to carry your body armor, plus 210 rounds of whatever ammunition your rifle requires, you’ll hardly notice it when you have your kit on. Magazine pouches that have MOLLE capability allow you to attach them directly to your ATS plate carrier, or whatever rig you decide to attach them to.

This allows you quick access to your magazines when you need to reload during an engagement if necessary. I recommend the ATS 6×3 Shingle magazine pouch system, for two big reasons.

The first reason is that it’s made by ATS. They’re such a reliable manufacturer for warfighters and preppers alike, and I’ve had nothing but great experiences with them. The second reason is their magazine capacity.

The 6×3 Shingle holds six 5.56mm magazines (you can also get the 7.62mm version), as well as three double-stack pistol magazines. This capacity allows you to localize all of your ammunition in one area, making it a great option for preppers looking for simplicity.

Tip – keep loaded magazines face-down in your magazine pouch, and empty magazines face-up. This way, you can distinguish without looking at what magazines are available for you to grab so you can reload your weapon.

War Belts

These glorious inventions make carrying supplemental pouches a lot easier for guys like me, and I’m sure you’ll love them too. They’re simply a belt with MOLLE loops built all the way around them, making them capable of attaching any MOLLE pouch to them.

This enables you to keep your kit pouch-free and enables you to toss your belt with all your equipment on it to someone in case of an emergency. Most war belts come with suspenders as well, making them much easier to keep secure on your waist.

Once again, ATS wins my vote for the war belt. The ATS War Belt is extremely durable (I’ve proven this with rigorous use), and reliable. I put ATS’s lifetime warranty to the test when I accidentally tore my war belt while getting off a Blackhawk.

I sent it to ATS, and they sent me a brand-new belt that hasn’t had any issues since. The only downside to this belt, is you’ll need to buy an inner belt (which you can also purchase off their website) in order to secure it around your waist.

I recommend getting an inner belt with a buckle for quick-release, however, it’s not necessary.

Utility and Dump Pouches

These pouches are designed with simplicity in mind. While they’re not necessary for survival, they can be of great use if you plan on wearing your kit for long periods of time.

Utility pouches (AKA sustainment pouches) are pouches that you can attach to your kit to carry small, necessary items (like maps, markers, etc.). Another great use for utility pouches is to keep an energy bar inside of it, trust me it comes in handy.

ATS offers a great selection of affordable utility pouches, but my favorite is the ATS Small Utility Pouch. I know I mention ATS a lot in my articles, but it’s for a good reason.

They’re the only brand that I’ve heard of that makes such great quality gear and offers a lifetime warranty (even if you’re not the original buyer) on their items. If you like another brand, that’s fine. Just don’t get “Condor”, they make terrible, unreliable gear.

Dump pouches are pouches that you can attach to your kit, or war belt in order to store your expended magazines in. While you can just place your expended magazines back in your magazine pouch, dump pouches offer a faster way of doing this so you can get back in the fight faster.

Magazines may be hard to come by post-collapse, so conserving them is of utmost importance so that you can reload them later.

IFAK (Improvised First Aid Kit)

If you buy any pouch for your kit, make sure the IFAK is the first one you buy. When SHTF and you end up getting shot (or injured by some other means), you don’t want to be wasting precious time by digging in your BOB looking for medical supplies.

An IFAK enables you to carry essential items that could save your life (sold separately) while keeping them within reach at all times. If you want to look at the one I personally use (which is obviously ATS), click here.

Ear-Pro and Eye-Pro

You definitely don’t need to spend an arm and a leg when it comes to protecting your ears from loud noises, and eyes from debris and shrapnel.

The best eye-pro I’ve ever had was a pair of ESS Crossbow ballistic eye-pro. A sturdy carrying case, two frames, and two lenses (tinted for daytime and clear for nighttime) come with the package for $105 off of their website but can be sold for less at most army surplus stores (if you can find them).

For ear-pro, any basic earplugs will work. However, I recommend getting a pair with a string keeping them together, along with a carrying case to keep them clean when you’re not using them. You can find a pair like this for less than $5 at Walmart, and they should last you a long time.

Although, I recommend getting at least three or four pairs of ear-pro per person. Sometimes, ear-pro can get lost or damaged while in a firefight or a long movement.

Should You Get Body Armor?

Body armor is a vital necessity for preppers, that fact is not up for debate. Whatever brands you decide to buy, however, is up to you.

For those of you who are new to my articles, I stress a lot on the fact that whatever you buy is on you. I’m only here to help guide you in the right direction if you have little experience in my area of expertise.

With this being said, please don’t try to go make your own body armor. If you take a round to homemade body armor, you’re probably going to die wondering why you didn’t leave the body armor making up to the professionals.

Shooting with body armor on can be difficult at first. However, with practice (and lots of it) you’ll start to get used to it, and eventually, it will become second nature to you.

Remember, the added weight from body armor can be a nuisance when moving long distances. Make sure you practice hiking long distances with this added weight, so you’re not sucking when you have to do it when SHTF.

Never underestimate how helpful extra pouches can be for your kit. While you don’t want to be carrying everything you can think of in your kit, the added availability of some items will prove to be useful in bad situations.

Even if you decide to get the bare minimum for body armor, make sure you at least get a plate carrier with SAPI plates and soft armor, and some ear and eye-pro.

With these basic items, you’ll stand a chance against another trained enemy. You know what they say, “The only way to stop a bad guy with a gun, is a good guy with a gun”.

8 thoughts on “Body Armor for Preppers and SHTF: What You Should Know”

  1. Regarding the comment that the “DAPS (Deltoid and Axillary Protector System)” are not necessary. If a person’s plans include driving for any purpose, that person legitimately needs to have something to provide coverage for the arm and armpit area, because a person shooting at you in a vehicle is entirely likely to direct shots at you on the off axis to the left or right rather than from in front of you – and you need to have coverage for these areas.

    You may not ordinarily expose your sides during an encounter on foot, but if you are in a vehicle – you simply don’t have a choice.

    In short, I believe you are wrong.

    1. MA Vincin,
      Thank you for your concern and your opinion which you are entitled to.
      However, my opinion the DAPS stays the same. I have had to wear full DAPS with an IOTV and side SAPI plates.
      If I’m going to die, I’ll die comfortable.

      Stay safe,

  2. MSG Ronald Hunter

    I recently gave my AR500 steel plates to my very athletic son and replaced them with ceramic plates. I’m too hold to hump heavy gear. I will not be bugging out. My wife has mobility issues and I’m not running anywhere if and when the SHTF. I wear my body armor on walks through the neighborhood and have struck up conversations with curious neighbors. We are having a neighborhood meeting to organize a informal neighborhood protection plan. I will take my body armor to the meeting and explain why I have it to my neighbors. I will print your article and give them out at the meeting. Good job.

  3. We currently have our soft body armor, and have trauma plates we can install (drop in) front for r8fle Fire if needed. I agree with NOT trying to conceal 8t, when the SHTF scenarios. Why bother.Ours are pla8n blackness 8n color, wetry not to have any gear that is camo’d, to stay more “grey”, when having to transit areas.

  4. There are very serious issues as to IF one should ‘Bug Out’. 1st off, you already have your home as your base. Why leave it with all it can offer if your location, and situation does not require to do so? Next is the question of why have some other fixed location to bug out to? You can’t carry all that you already have available in your home.

    Now, should your situation be so dangerous that you must leave your home, and you are prepared with your bug out gear, no one should ever count on a ‘fixed’ bug out location. The whole purpose of getting away from a dangerous fixed place is to get to some area that is safer. You can never know that your idea of a safe haven you selected some time before is not compromised, and could even be more dangerous than where you just came from. The whole idea of bugging out is to remain unseen by anyone who could cause you harm. What location you selected in advance should never be your first stop. Head to the area, then lie low nearby to watch for a day or two while remaining concealed and under cover to see if it has remained a good place. The hardship of remaining in a nearby area to your predetermined location, but hidden is much better than walking into a possible bad situation that has been compromised.

    The whole idea of bugging out is to remain safe. If that means to move to several different areas to check each out, and to suffer some hardships in seeking safe grounds, that is nothing compared to blindly walking into a trap. Your prearranged location that you probably stocked for your convenience is a very likely place for others to also find and take as theirs. The best idea is to prestock several locations of
    buried supplies so that if one is compromised you can just move to another you have hidden. (possibly
    underground or in storage vaults you built.)

    You must remember, that when bugging out with, or without a family your main goal is not one for combat, but to avoid confrontation. Camouflage, cover, and concealment.

    Also, whereas we have all gotten very used to having a vehicle to go anywhere, a vehicle might not be of any use in many catastrophic disasters. You must be prepared to carry all your supplies. You had better have learned of some basic tasks of how to live as our forefathers did in the 1700’s.

    Now, for the idea of body armor? Why? Your goal is to remain safe, and if the area is not safe you must do all you can to move carefully, quickly and quietly to remain unseen. Just as Bill Jordan stated in his
    book, why present yourself to be any kind of a target.

    You may run into some circumstances where you need to perform some type of combat activities to protect you, and yours, but your whole idea is still to try to avoid, and escape. Once you get into a
    combat situation, not even body armor can be of much use to your primary goal. Those who think that they need such armor are only thinking of walking into combat situations rather than thinking of their real goal. The ‘thinking’ must change to one of protection alone, and not one of combat. Think and plan to avoid all possible combat situations. The ‘what if’s’ are different in your thinking and planning.

  5. As a former cavalry scout, I would add one other factor. But first, I wanted to say this was a wonderful article. What I’d add is the train as you fight, fight as you train aspect. We all know wearing IOTV WITH ESAPI’s are roughly around 40lbs of added weight. Prepper’s need to get accustomed to physical activities for long duration periods and embrace what the suck will feel like in all outdoor temperatures. If the time came and you only wore the body armor to size, fit and wear around the house you are in for a huge surprise later. It takes discipline to wear something uncomfortable and that will eventually make you ache in your neck, shoulders and back. Same with a ballistic proof helmet, it takes dicipline just the same to wear it, also ballistic eyewear.

    This last part is off topic. MOPP gear and Protective Masks for CBRN environments. A filter and a MOPP suit are only good for 45 minutes in a contaminated environment. I see a lot of Prepper’s that aquire MOPP gear and Masks and they get a false sense of security for themselves and family. My best advice is if you’re a Prepper you need to read Army Field Manuals about CBRN, MOPP exchange, decontamination and Protective Masks and the different types and filters. Also how to use detection tape and audible alarms.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *