30+ Items to Barter With Post Collapse

Here’s an excellent video made by Tara Dodrill where showing us the top 30 items to stockpile for bartering purposes:

Here’ an older article with 50 bartering items, if you prefer to read. And here’s another one that also explains the concept a little bit.

30 items to barter with post collapse pinterest

About Tara Dodrill

Tara Dodrill
Tara Dodrill is a homesteading and survival journalist and author. She lives on a small ranch with her family in Appalachia. She has been both a host and frequent guest on preparedness radio shows. In addition to the publication of her first book, 'Power Grid Down: How to Prepare, Survive, and Thrive after the Lights go Out', Dodrill also travels to offer prepping tips and hands-on training and survival camps and expos.


  1. Avatar

    Barter & Trade as it applies to Prepping

    There are several different schools of thought on this subject. Many of those holding these varying opinions are very, very adamant about them.

    1. A person must have everything on hand before a disaster and the PAW, as there will be absolutely nothing available afterwards. There is no point in having trade goods.

    2. A person must have everything on hand before a disaster and the PAW, as everyone else will be out to destroy you and take everything you have if you try to obtain anything from anybody for anything afterwards. There is no point in having trade goods.

    3. A person must have everything on hand before a disaster and the PAW, as nobody else will have anything that you could possibly want that they would be willing to take anything you possibly have for it. There is no point in having trade goods.

    4. A person must have everything on hand before a disaster and the PAW, for if you have anything at all that anyone could possibly want, you will need it yourself and would be an idiot if you traded it away for anything they might possibly have. There is no point in having trade goods.

    5. No one can have everything they might need, because no one knows exactly what will happen, nor can a person have every skill that might ever be needed, and no one can ‘store up’ services, so having something that people trying to survive might need or want in the PAW is not a bad idea. Having trade goods could be a very good idea.

    I pretty much go with #5. So, as long as you have the preps you want/need, for the situation you believe you can survive, having a few more of those preps would probably get you things and services you did not think about ahead of time. Especially potable water in some instances. Food, of course. And many services, such as medical.

    Now, with that rant pretty much out of the way, here are my real thoughts on barter and trade:

    My thoughts and opinions on barter and trade

    Barter will happen. It is happening now. All over the place. Do a little now, if you can. Just to get the practice. It is a learned skill, though I will admit there are some natural born ‘horse traders’ that seem to have a knack for it.

    When it comes to barter and trade in a post event world or a true PAW (post-apocalyptic world), there are some differences, which is what this article addresses.

    First thing, I think, will be, when do I barter and trade? This will depend on many factors, just as many other prepper activities do. However, I suspect that there will be something of a money bias at first. Many, if not most, people will still want to use paper or plastic for transactions. At least until the card systems go down.

    Then, probably many will revert to cash only transactions, because it is something know, and it is easy. From the outset there will be those that will not accept paper money, much less credit cards, or even debit cards. But I believe those will be in the minority.

    As it becomes more and more obvious that others are not taking cash, those that have been using it will probably stop. Especially when the gouging starts, and the ‘smart’ guys start charging outrageous prices for the simplest things, believing that the cash will eventually have value again. In the past, people like that were correct, and made huge fortunes.

    And it just might happen that way again in the future. Or it might not. But either way, cash will stop being accepted by enough people that one will have to start doing some barter and trade to get the things one needs or wants.

    The time frame will vary, of course, from place to place, and will be dependent on exactly what is happening. But I think, if it is a serious event that becomes obvious fairly quickly, that plastic will be out within a few days, if not much sooner if the grid goes down.

    Cash will be king for as much as a week, perhaps as much as two, if it is not obvious that it is a long-term situation. But after that, I do not think much cash will be changing hands. At least, not in a commerce sense.

    When it becomes barter and trade, things are very likely to get pretty dicey. Because at that point, health, well-being, and even life may depend on getting basic human needs, with whatever you have in your possession at the time.

    In the past, in such situations, people turned to gold and silver. Primarily jewelry and silver houseware such as silverware, serving platters, and candlesticks. But society is different now. While entrepreneurial types may take it, at highly reduced value ratings, expecting a future where they will get something near original value, or even more.

    Others, knowing of the bullion type precious metal coins, bars, and other items, will be willing to accept them. But not that many people will have them, that do not already have good supplies of basic human needs.

    So, after that two-week time (or so) that cash is still used, the attempts to use jewelry and several other things that people consider valuable now, will take place. I just do not think they will be very successful, as more and more people come to realize that those items are not going to have much value in the future barter and trade economy, and it could be years or decades before things get to a point where they will have value again.

    A couple of weeks or a month, perhaps, before barter and trade comes to an essential halt. Not so much for the lack of things to trade, but because of the environment. In the situations we are talking about, people are going to be desperate, and there will be many, way too many, that will take extreme advantage of the WROL (without rule of law) situation that will exist.

    Anyone with useful items that is caught out and about is likely to have those things taken from them, and possibly killed. And those that have anything with much purchasing power, will likely see the same fate. People will quickly learn to stay at home, and try to figure out a way to get what they want, with what they have, in a safe way.

    During this time things will probably go from bad to worse, and people will be absolutely desperate to get the things they and their family needs to survive. They might go out to trade, but it will armed, and they will be aggressive. Just as likely to shoot first and not bother to ask questions later if there is the slightest indication the other party is dangerous, or reluctant to make the deal.

    What should one plan to do, if that is the way it plays out? Of course, having tradegoods available is one. But that is addressed later. Right now, the planning involves when, where, how, and with whom.

    Best is to only trade with people you knew before well enough to be able to trust them now. And while out and about, very discretely, and through your communications system, listen, observe, and monitor what is going on. You should be able to pick up who is trading what, and if they are making reasonable trades. Whether someone is stealing, gouging, has inferior items, or is difficult to deal with.

    By investing a bit of time doing these checks, there should be at least some people that you will be able to trust enough to at least set up a meet to discuss some trading.

    Never at your place. Never at their place. Never alone.

    Some place neutral, where you can feel relatively safe, but so can the other party. You and a couple others. Too many and you will scare off anyone legitimate. Less than three of you, and there could be a temptation to simply kill you and take what you might have. Though this is unlikely, at the initial meeting, since no trading is planned. But for the actual trade meetings, it could be likely.

    Once satisfied that if you are careful, you can do some trading with the person, set up the time and place to meet (if not the same), and what you ‘might be able to get’ by then, and what you would need in return. Not necessarily the particulars of the exchange, but some basics for negotiation.

    And if you noted the ‘might be able to get’ part, that was not just me being cute. (Believe me, I am never cute.) That is to emphasize that you never let anyone not within your group, and then only those you trust 100% with your life and the lives of your family, know what you do have available.

    When you do trades, take only what was discussed, and perhaps another item or two, in very limited quantity. You do not want others to think you have very much, nor do you want anyone to think you have very many things of value that are not necessities, but might be worth something to someone. Do not be the rich guy, and do not be the hoarder.

    There will have to be a value set for what you have, and what the other person has. This is the negotiation part. It will vary, and is entirely up to the two doing the trade. You will either reach agreement, or you will not.

    And it might be one set of values one time, and another set of values the next time, depending on what might have become available in the community, what might now be more scarce, whether the other person is more, or less desperate. Whether you are more or less desperate. And you never want the other person think you are desperate, even if you are.

    Never couch things in terms such as: “I need…”, “I have to have…”, “She is sick and will die if…”, “If I don’t get…”, and so on. The same thing about aggressiveness. Do not make threats, or even imply them. Make sure that the other person knows that you will defend yourself harshly if they try anything, but do not give them the idea you are just waiting for a chance to take their items and kill them.

    Usually it is best to kind of work up to a trade, in that you do not always offer up your best items that are most likely to be accepted. If you do, especially often, people will know that you have plenty of things of value, and that makes you a serious target worth taking a risk to attack.

    There will always be some risk in doing barter and trade in a post event world, but it can be lessened. Always have safety and security in mind, as well as information control.

    On to some additional ideas.

    Just like any other transaction, whether barter or trade of specific goods, payment by paper money, hard money, or some other form of currency is involved, some people will accept the terms of the exchange and some will not. If the price is too high or too low, depending on which end of the deal you are on, no transaction will take place.

    When it comes to money, it is a matter of trust. Do you trust the individual to have the real thing, and do you trust that someone else will take it in future trade. Because some will, I will have some gold and silver. Because some will not, I plan to have trade goods, also.

    I am not too concerned about there being a lot of counterfeit gold and silver out there in the aftermath of a disaster. If the economy becomes standardized on hard money again, then yes, there will undoubtedly be counterfeiting going on. Always has been, always will be. I have received counterfeit bills before, so I know the risk is there. I just consider it a small risk, then and in the future.

    I will judge each exchange on an individual basis and decide which form of payment I am willing to make or accept. The other party will have to make the same determination.

    Some people, on the other hand, think the common currency will be ammunition. Then there are about as many other opinions as there are other people. I believe, that since people recognize the fact that gold and silver coins circulated in the past as relatively stable money, that when (maybe if, but more likely when) paper money loses value, they will go back to recognizable gold and silver coinage.

    I do think people will trust the pre-1965 silver coins and the newly minted Gold Eagles of various denominations. The Gold Eagles have a dollar value and gold content on them, so it will make it easy to do transactions. I think people will go the easy route and use them. One or two compact coin references that show the coins, their precious metals content, and the years they were minted will go a long way to convincing people that have no common knowledge about PM coins just what it is you have. Or, in many cases what they have, or do not have.

    Again, this is just one person’s opinion. I value other points of view. Makes me think. I actually sometimes change my opinion. Rarely, though. I am from Missouri originally and you definitely have to “Show Me”.

    The Big Five trade goods in my opinion are liquor, tobacco, coffee, sugar, and gasoline. Other high ticket items are meat, pain medications, feminine hygiene items, milk, baby things, toilet paper, lighters & matches, chocolate, salt, seeds, canning lids, cooking oils, gloves, socks, needles & thread, and other fuels.

    Other items to stock are ammunition; various condiments, herbs, and spices; flour (or wheat and a grinder), and other OTC medicines beside pain meds.

    On buying in bulk:

    Buying in bulk is an excellent way to save money IF:

    1. You can use the product up before it goes bad, once opened

    2. You can store the product effectively in large quantities

    3. You are prepared to repackage the product in smaller quantities for long term storage

    4. You are prepared to trade/barter it in small quantities, AND have the means to measure/weigh it and a container in which it can be carried by the buyer

    5. You have the means to have several of the bulk containers in various places so everything is not vulnerable in one place

    6. You have the money at one time to get the bulk quantity

    7. You can risk the loss of large quantities at one time if things must be abandoned

    Because of some of these IF’s, I prefer to get many items in smaller containers, though often in box quantities of the smaller package.

    So, many of your trade goods should be purchased in case lots of the smallest practical sealed individual packages available. While you could save money by buying cases of the larger packages you might have trouble getting an equitable trade for the packages when things are tight. By buying the smaller packages in case lots, you do recoup some of the difference. Go for the liquor in pints, coffee in one-pound cans, etc.

    All of the human consumable items possible should be vacuum packed or canned to provide the longest possible shelf life.

    Sugar, salt, and wheat will last indefinitely if kept dry, cool, and rodent proof, so store sugar and salt in one-pound paper packages in larger cans or pails with tight, waterproof lids, or get the professionally packed #10 cans or Super Pails. Keep wheat and a grinder, rather than flour. Grind as you need for trading.

    Factory assembled ammunition will keep for twenty years or more if reasonable care is taken. Both cocoa and bar chocolate should be kept. I have kept cocoa for over a year in the original can with little deterioration. And while it tends to separate, milk chocolate stays edible if kept cool in a tight container. Stored candy and nuts should be the canned type. Pepper keeps well in the all-metal can type container.

    Follow the same temperature and humidity provisions for the soup, canned meat, and powdered milk. I include canned meat in the trade goods list, but not vegetables, because I believe that meat products will disappear faster and be harder to obtain after a disaster than vegetables and fruits. Americans consume huge amounts of meat and are accustomed to it. Fruits and vegetables can be grown fairly easily. Meat cannot.

    Keep tea in its original cellophane sealed package, and place it in airtight cans. Consult with your doctor on medicines to keep for trade, but you must stay away from prescription items and just stock Over The Counter medications and supplies.

    Lay in the matches. They disappear rapidly when you must light fires, candles, and lamps, every time you want to cook or have light. Get only wooden strike anywhere kitchen matches, not book matches or safety matches that must be struck on the box.

    Soaps will also disappear quickly, I feel, so stock Lava soap at least, and perhaps bleach, laundry soap such as Fels-Naptha, dish detergent, and bath soap. I particularly like Ivory since it floats and is very mild.

    Never show more than necessary for a given trade. Never let on like you have more.

    Only trade alcohol, weapons, and ammunition to those you know will not be a problem for you later.

    Try to barter skills and knowledge rather than goods. They do not run out.

    Try to barter the information in books. Do not let the books leave your control.

    Try to barter the use of tools and equipment rather than trading them away.

    Try to make trades in neutral areas or at a designated barter/trade meeting. Make sure you are not followed back home.

    Some other things I have learned while practicing my barter/trade skills:

    1. If both parties are happy with the trade, it is a good trade.

    2. What is a good barter/trade between two people is not always a good trade for two other people. Everyone has different value systems, needs, wants, and resources.

    3. While getting value for value is nearly an absolute, being extremely ‘stingy’ will get a person the reputation of being too difficult to deal with, and reduce that person’s ability to trade.

    4. In the same vein, taking extreme advantage of someone that is essentially clueless, will usually come back to haunt one when that person learns they could/should/might have received rather more than they did for a given item. That will turn a ‘both parties happy with the trade’ good trade into a grudge by the person that got taken advantage of against the person that took advantage. In addition it will get the undue advantage taker the reputation of one that cannot be trusted to do an honest trade.

    5. Sometimes a direct trade simply is not possible when one of the traders simply does not have anything the other trader wants. Pushing for a trade by the one that does want what the other has is usually both useless, and counterproductive.

    6. Sometimes three-way (or more way) trades are required if two people do not have what each other wants, but a third party has one of the items and is willing to participate in the trade, with each getting something they want. Again, trying to force someone to trade is almost always counterproductive.

    7. When using PMs (precious metals), having an agreement for any given barter/trade day on what specific PM coins are worth and posting it might be advantageous. Of course any two people making a barter/trade that includes PMs will apply their own value to the coins, having a standard value as a reference point for those not familiar with PMs might make it much easier for them.

    8. While being ‘wealthy’ in trade goods is certainly not a bad thing, making excessive value barters/trades to get all the ‘good stuff’, will get one plenty of items, but will also get one the reputation of being a ‘rich person taking undue advantage of that wealth’. Just as it does now when someone tries to buy up everything they can of limited supply items in a crisis situation.

    9. In the same vein, someone that constantly interferes in barters/trades between two other people and offers a bit more than what the one person can give, to get a given item without having to trade for it with the person that is trying to get it, gets the same reputation of abusing their wealth.

    10. Once a person gets a bad reputation as a barterer/trader, that reputation will stay with them for a very long time, no matter how much they might try to reverse it.

    11. The reputation of being a good, honest barter/trader is worth its weight in gold.

    12. Cheap junk is still cheap junk in a barter/trade situation, just as it is in a regular money based economy.

    13. The old adage that one person’s junk is another person’s treasure is an old adage for a reason. It can certainly be true. But it sure is not all the time. People can have very different value systems for different types of items.

    14. Sometimes a ‘kicker’ is worth a lot more in good will than its actual value. And while it might not ‘make the deal’, that good will can often make a deal in the future possible that might not be otherwise. Especially if it is given after the deal is made.

    One thing that should be noted, is that in current times, barters/trades are considered taxable transactions. Regular, on-going barter/trade, or barters/trades of significant value, should probably be recorded with the Fair Market Value, priced in US FRNs (Federal Reserve Notes [Dollars in other words]) and the record kept available in case of inquiry by the government, be it State or Federal.

    If a tax must be paid, it is much better to have a reasonable value recorded than risk having the government assign any value they wish to the transaction, and pay the tax on that.

    Not all the items/skills listed will be of much value early into the event. Depending on just what has happened, people might tend to cling to the assumption that Cash Is Still King, at least for a few weeks. Then some will still be slow to start the barter and trade hassle.

    And it could be three to five years or more for some of the items to become valuable. Precious metals are one of those. Some durable goods that do not wear out too quickly. Many different things on many different time frames.

    Many of the items are only appropriate if one already has the items or skills involved. They are not something you would acquire just for barter. Listed simply as a reminder that many things might be in demand in the PAW, and various hobbies or existing businesses and skills can be the basis of trade goods or services.

    Try to have most of your equipment and several months of consumables before you stockpile trade goods, including Precious Metals.

    When it comes to PMs, unless you are wealthy, start slow. A few silver dimes & quarters at a time. When you feel it is time to get gold coins, stay with the small denominations. And remember that there will be some people that won’t trust or want them.

    If you are trading bulk items, try to have the customers bring their own containers for the items. But it will be a good idea to have some of your own so you can trade just the amount you or they want without having to try and get full value for the full container of the goods. For many of them you can collect a deposit, to encourage the people to bring back the same container for repeat sales to conserve your stock of the containers.

    Personally, I do not stock goods to trade for other goods very much at all. What I stock, and the reason I stock, is to trade for services, skills, and knowledge. No matter how skilled and knowledgeable one is, no matter how good a library one has, no one knows everything or can do everything.

    People will need the services, skills, and knowledge that someone else has, and will need some way to pay for it. And in many cases, mine especially, additional labor is likely to be required at times. That is why I stock a few things. Because those people with what I need are quite likely to not have the things they need in the PAW and will be desperate to get whatever it is they need in return for their special skill, knowledge, or service. Or labor.

    I do not suggest you stock up trade goods with the intention of getting items you know you will be needing in the future. Stock those items first. Now, if your plan is to have a PAW store, that is one thing, but an individual that just wants a few things to get something he either failed to think of, or wasn’t available to the person before the event, is another. Better to have several of a few key items than one each of many. But those key items could be very different in different areas of the country.

    A special note on water. I only recently added bottled water to the list of items to have for barter. I did not list pre-packaged water by itself before, for a couple of reasons. Water is a critical element for life.

    In the initial phases of a disaster, I simply cannot bring myself to withhold water from someone that needs it in circumstances like that. I either give it away, or I just keep it and do not admit to having any. (Out of sight.)

    Trading water just is not something I could do under those circumstances. I have water as part of my humanitarian supplies, to give away. And I have more for strictly my own use. That is a personal quirk, and I am not saying people should not trade water. I do intend to charge for purification services and transport of water in the PAW. Just not the water itself. Semantics, I know. But it soothes my conscious. A little.

    Another thought was that it just would not go very far. Water is a high volume item. A little does not go a long way. People need a lot of water. Just think about how much you have to store for yourself. Becoming known as a water source could turn dangerous very quickly. Food is one thing, later on. People are going to try and get it by any means. But water, they are going to want right now. And water is FREE everywhere now. That concept is not going to change very quickly. People are not going to be happy about being charged for water in an emergency. They might have been paying for bottled water by choice, but they knew they could get water for free. Charging for it in a disaster is going to make a lot of enemies.

    And bottled water is expensive. I do not think it is a very good use of limited barter funds. I prefer to have the purification means. $150 can get me a purifier (Go Berkery) that will purify 3,000+ gallons of water. $150 will only get me about ~100 – 300 gallons or so of bottled water.

    Of course, if there is no water to purify, and the only water available is what is stored, which is the case out where I am in some places, then it does make sense to have water to trade. But I look at that on a different level. That the lack of water is already a given. Where people have to buy water on a regular basis anyway, that changes the dynamics. Bartering water then does make sense.

    If I was going to barter bottled water in a ‘normal situation’ event, it would only be for, ‘Here you go. No charge. But I might need a hand in the future. You know with a garden or something.’ type return.

    I did add bottled water to the list, just because it does make sense as an option, and a reminder to people about just how important it is.

    The following is a list of possibilities, not a plan for a PAW store. Decide what will work for your area and situation, and then concentrate on a few of the items. Much better to have more preps than tie up too much in trade goods. Some is good, but unless you do plan to have a PAW store, stick with a limited amount.

    In a related vein, one thing comes up regularly (along with several others, of course) and that is the opinion to not stock anything you do not have a need for yourself. In a similar vein, the opinion that one should not have to barter in the future at all, if they are prepared properly. I agree to the first to a degree, but disagree with the second. I just do not believe every need can be anticipated, plus the facts that things can change, even for the most well equipped prepper, and situations arrive that have not been prepared for adequately, if at all, are almost a certainty.

    And while a person or group can have an extremely wide variety of skills, and a library of training information, it is always possible a situation will come up that will be beyond the kin of everyone available. So specialized skills, services, and equipment could be required by someone very well prepared. There is also the distinct possibility for the need for extra labor than what an individual or group can provide. Again due to unforeseen circumstances, including injury to one or more people. You cannot store up labor, and you cannot store up services. You will probably need someone at some point to provide you with one or more.

    It is for this reason, along with the others, that I have trade goods, including things that I will not likely use myself. Other people will have different needs, and certainly wants, than I do. Of course the basics are always needed. But there are doctors that are well prepared, and will not need a dozen eggs or pound of bacon. And they might not want PMs, if there are people around that do have things the doctor wants but will not take the PMs. So the doctor might very well want something you do not need or want, but that someone else does, that has what the doctor wants. So, in order to pay for the doctor’s treatment, you might just need something you have no use for in your trade goods stocks to be able to make the necessary trade to get what you want.

    Yes, it can get a bit complicated. And I do not suggest buying up bunches of stuff that just might be useful in the future without putting a great deal of thought into it. What I am saying, is do not limit your choices to just things that you will eventually use. A few carefully selected items that are likely to be needed/wanted by others could be the difference between getting what you desperately need and not getting it.

    An additional disclaimer: I have found in reaction to my lists and to my fiction, where quite a few items are listed, or the protagonist has quite a bit of money, they get anything from slightly annoyed to totally incensed. Thus this disclaimer. It is much easier for me to include things in lists to give options, and have some (and only some) of my characters have money, than not.

    What I have found with one-on-one communication with many of the people that read the lists and the fiction inform me that they came up with a much cheaper way, or way to do something with less, because of their background, than what I have listed or the ‘rich’ guy simply bought top of the line. The majority of my readers have proven themselves quite capable of taking the information I provide and adapting it to their needs, and to their budgets. With some really creative thinking that, without their experiences, I have no way of having.

    So for those that think the list is too long, too involved, or too expensive, or too ‘trade post-ty, then that is the way it is. I will let the others glean what they can from it, and be happy if I have made it easier for someone.

    One last thing before I get to the list. A very disturbing element of barter and trade in the PAW. Be wary of food items, or anything else that you will use internally, and even things used externally on the body. During normal times, even during and after ‘normal’ disasters where things will essentially get back to normal, this should not be a problem. But in the PAW, someone might just want to do you harm. This could be in order to get your trade goods, or a more nefarious purpose, such as taking over everything of yours.

    So, if there is the least chance that this could be the case, and you trade for food or other internally or externally used item, have the other person consume or use a random sample of the product, from the stock they are going to give you in trade. If they refuse, you might want to not finish the trade. The items might be contaminated, or even poisoned.

    Now, an antidote for some poisons can be taken beforehand, so the person can take something that is poisoned, with no ill effects. But the likelihood of this happening in the PAW is slim. So, if they are willing to consume the item, it is likely safe enough. But be very wary.

    The full list of some items that I am acquiring and think might be useful for barter or trade during and after a major disaster: (No, I Do not have all of these items. Yet.)

    Commercial scales to get agreed upon weights of items
    Troy weight scale; up to 16 ounce scale; and 1#+, 10#+, 100#+, & 500#+ scales

    Blank barter slips to record transactions, especially those with future delivery dates
    (pre-printed slips with the who, what, when, how much, etc.)

    US Mint Gold Eagle coins in 1.0 oz, 0.5 oz, 0.25 oz, and 1/10 oz denominations
    US Mint Silver Eagle coins in 1.0 oz denomination.
    Circulated pre-1965 US 90% silver quarters
    Circulated pre-1965 90% silver dimes

    1. A large library of useful books (trade the information, not the book)

    2. 8-oz bottles of water
    3. 1-liter bottles of water

    4. 200ml bottles 190 proof Everclear
    5. smokeless tobacco
    6. 2 oz boxes tobacco
    7. booklets cigarette papers
    8. smoking pipes
    9. small boxes matches
    10. butane lighter fuel
    11. Zippo lighter fuel
    12. lighter flints
    13. lighter wicks
    14. disposable lighters

    15. straight razors w/strop, soap, & cup
    16. shaving soap
    17. Q-tips

    18. playing cards
    19. dice

    20. candle/oil lamp wick
    21. Coleman lantern mantles
    22. Crank flashlights

    23. Canned green coffee beans (with a roaster and grinder to use, not trade away)
    24. 2 oz jars instant coffee
    25. 16 count boxes teabags
    26. Tea bricks
    27. 2 oz jars bouillon cubes
    28. tubs add-water-only drink mix

    29. 1 pound boxes sugar
    30. various spices
    31. small containers of cooking oil
    32. 2 oz boxes salt
    33. 2 oz cans pepper

    34. 5 oz cans evaporated milk
    35. 14oz cans sweetened condensed milk
    36. 4 oz cans cocoa
    37. 2 oz bars chocolate candy
    38. 8 oz bags hard candy (individually wrapped)

    39. 4 oz cans Vienna sausage/potted meat
    40. 12 oz cans roast beef
    41. 7 oz cans Spam (or 12oz)(or Treet)
    42. 6 oz cans tuna
    43. 10 oz cans soup (meaty types)
    44. 16 oz bags rice
    45. 16 oz bags beans/lentils
    46. #10 cans Pilot Bread

    47. aspirin pain killer
    48. acetaminophen pain killer
    49. multi-vitamins
    50. water purification tablets

    51. OTC reading glasses
    52. OTC UVA/B/C/D resistant sunglasses
    53. Cheap wide-brimmed straw hats

    54. small boxes tampons/sanitary napkins
    55. reusable sanitary napkins
    56. Diva cups or similar

    57. reusable cotton diapers
    58. diaper pins
    59. leak proof diaper cover pants
    60. clothes pins

    61. wooden pencils/ink pens
    62. small note books
    63. legal pads

    64. 6”-12” candles
    65. boxes strike anywhere kitchen matches
    66. rolls toilet paper
    67. bars soap (Ivory, Lava, Fels Naptha, Dial)
    68. hair combs/brushes
    69. disposable razors
    70. toothbrushes
    71. boxes baking soda

    72. shoe and boot laces
    73. packets safety pins
    74. packets of sewing needles
    75. spools of thread
    76. bachelor buttons/jeans buttons
    77. clothing snaps and rivets
    78. scissors

    79. mousetraps
    80. rat traps
    81. fly swatters
    82. mosquito netting
    83. window screening

    84. jersey gloves
    85. cotton/leather work gloves
    86. insulated gloves
    87. socks

    88. tubes silicone sealant
    89. tubes Shoe Goo/Goop
    90. tubes JB Weld
    91. duct tape
    92. mechanic’s wire
    93. electrical tape
    94. friction tape
    95. rubber tape
    96. sheet plastic
    97. divided buckets with a variety of nails, screws, bolts, nuts, ashers, staples, zip ties, brads, Velcro
    98. divided buckets with a variety of grommets, HD snaps, hammer rivets, and pop rivets with setting tools
    99. sealed cans of welding rods (6011 and/or 7018 1/8”)
    100. variety of brazing rods
    101. cans of brazing flux
    102. shovels (round & square, straight & curved)

    103. regular canning lids
    104. wide mouth canning lids
    105. Tattler/4-Ever Recap reusable canning lids
    106. Tattler/4-Ever reusable canning lid rubber rings/seals
    107. P-38/P-51 can openers

    108. 6-hour cans ECOFuelXB
    109. 1-lb propane cylinders
    110. 10-lb bags charcoal briquettes
    111. solar 12-volt battery chargers
    112. solar AAA, AA, C, D, 9-volt battery charger
    113. rechargeable batteries AAA, AA, C, D, 9-volt, CR123A

    114. Aluminum foil (HD)
    115. Wax paper
    116. Freezer paper
    117. Freezer tape

    In addition to the individual size and standard size prepackaged goods here are the things I think would be good trade goods bought in bulk and traded away in small quantities when things settle down, plus some items to make it easier.

    Blank barter slips to record transactions, especially those with future delivery dates
    Diamant #525 grain grinder to grind grains for customers, with spare grinding plates
    Katadyn Expedition water filter to make clean water for customers, with spare elements
    Crown Berkey water purification system to supplement the Katadyn, with spare elements

    Commercial scales to get agreed upon weights of items:
    Troy weight scale; 16 ounce scale; and 1#+, 10#+, 100#+, & 500#+ scales

    1. small containers for measured out items (spices, meds, etc.)(really small zip-locks and envelopes)
    2. set various scoops, funnels, etc. for measuring & transferring goods
    3. 5/6/7-gallon dispensing containers (to hold filtered water)
    4. 5/6/7 gallon buckets w/lids for water (deposit)
    5. 1-gal zip-lock bags/cloth bags (deposit)
    6. 1-quart zip-lock bags/cloth bags (deposit)
    7. medium paper sacks/cloth bags (deposit)
    8. small paper sacks/cloth bags (deposit)
    9. pint cans w/screw lids (deposit)
    10. Spring latch bottles (for carbonated beverages)
    11. Small brown, blue, green bottles
    12. Medium brown, blue, green bottles
    13. Various sizes of bottle corks
    14. Eye dropper corks

    Bulk trade goods

    1. #10 Cans Heirloom seeds
    2. Coffee plant seed
    3. Tobacco plant seed
    4. Tea plant seed
    5. Poppy plant seed
    6. 100# bags non-iodized canning salt
    7. 100# bags fertilizer
    8. Biodiesel production chemicals
    9. Soap making chemicals
    10. 50-round boxes of .22 LR RF cartridges

    11. rolls of toilet paper
    12. bundles of red shop rags as reusable TP substitute

    13. Chicken wire
    14. Stock/game salt/mineral blocks
    15. Game feed/bait
    16. 20# propane cylinders for refilling from large home tank with wet leg
    17. 1-lb propane cylinders
    18. 10-lb bags charcoal briquettes
    19. 1& 5-gallon containers kerosene
    20. 1-quart bottles of lamp oil

    21. Printer inks
    22. 3D printer feed materials
    23. Printer paper

    24. 5-gallon buckets of Sodium hypochlorite (pool shock) to make bleach

    25. Large containers of simple homemade cleaner ingredients (Baking soda, Vinegar, rubbing alcohol, washing soda, Borax, mild dish detergent [castile soap], cream of tartar, hydrogen peroxide, Lemon juice, sodium percarbonate, salt, corn starch, olive oil, calcium hypochlorite)

    Cases of

    1. 2 ounce bottles of extracts (Vanilla, mint, peppermint, butterscotch, maple, almond, anise, etc.)
    2. 1-lb packages yeast
    3. #2½ cans baking powder
    4. #2½ cans baking soda
    5. #2½ cans corn starch
    6. #2½ cans or vacuum packed spices (cream of tartar, allspice, season salt, pepper, mild chili powder, cinnamon, ginger, Italian seasoning, lemon pepper, nutmeg, spaghetti sauce spice, taco mix, parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme, clove, BBQ mix, basil, cumin, oregano, Paprika, anise, cayenne, garlic, curry mix, mustard, celery seed, turmeric, chives, Tabasco, caraway seed, cardamom, dill, fennel, tarragon, coriander, Worcestershire sauce, spearmint, peppermint, savory, mace)

    Buckets of:
    1. wheat
    2. rolled oats
    3. rice
    4. small red beans
    5. pinto beans
    6. great northern beans
    7. cornmeal
    8. sugar
    9. olive oil
    10. coconut oil
    11. shortening powder
    12. iodized salt
    13. kosher salt
    14. powdered milk
    15. vegetable stew mix
    16. dried eggs
    17. nutty granola
    18. butter powder
    19. cheese blend
    20. tomato powder
    21. macaroni
    22. noodles
    23. spaghetti noodles
    24. peanut butter powder
    25. honey
    26. beef bouillon
    27. chicken bouillon
    28. hard candy

    Here are some examples of Tradesman’s Tools that could be stockpiled and either used and the product/service bartered, or their USE bartered out. One wouldn’t barter away the tools that bring in the food. (Again, I Do not have all the items or skills.)

    1. Tailor/Seamstress tools
    sewing machine
    Sewing basket (needles, thimbles, thread, measuring tape, seam ripper, scissors, shears, marking chalk, straight edge, pins, neck magnifying glass, etc.)
    bolts of cloth, patterns, spare needles, pins, chalk, thread, buttons, zippers, snaps, etc)
    Treadle type sewing machine (Janome 712T)
    weaving looms
    >1,000 watt generator

    2. Food processing tools
    Grain grinders, solar dehydrators, butchering tools, manual meat slicer, manual meat grinder, sausage stuffer, stuffing tubes, jerky shooter, meat smoker, water purifier

    3. Barbers tools
    scissors, combs, hair brushes, dusting brush, broom, dust pan, chair, neck apron, razor, shaving cup, shaving soap, towels

    4. Ammunition re-loader’s tools
    Corbin Bullet swaging equipment
    RCBS Bullet casting equipment
    Ten-X TX-50 progress press for up to .50 BMG w/conversion sets
    Dillion Super 1050 progressive press w/Caliber kits for Super 1050
    Spolar Gold Premier hydraulic progressive press w/gauge conversions
    Progressive reloading press dies
    black powder making tools & screens

    5. Laundry tools
    water tank
    water heater (kettle w/tripod)
    12v pump & battery & hoses
    drain lines
    laundry soap
    bleach/sodium hypochlorite
    Staber washing machine
    >1,000 watt generator
    James washer w/wringer
    2+ washtubs
    RapidWasher plunger type washers
    5/6 gallon buckets
    clothes lines/poles, stakes & clothes pins

    6. Entertainment tools
    band instruments
    projection TV
    TV projector
    Lap-top computer
    CD/DVD/VHS/Blu-ray players
    Karaoke machine w/cd-g’s
    Lighting system
    Sound system
    >1,500 watt generator
    Battery bank, solar panels, and inverter
    protective bullet resistant face for TV’s if used
    Classic books for storyteller to read

    7. Ice making tools
    High capacity water purification system
    Water tank
    Water pump
    Small commercial block ice maker
    Small commercial ice cube maker
    Insulated storage containers
    Reusable transfer containers (deposit)
    >1,500 watt generator
    Ice house (for large scale storage) Rubber block ice molds (for winter use)

    8. Librarian tools (never let the media out of your control)
    reference/do-it-yourself library (books/magazines/CD-ROMs/DVDs)
    Laptop Computer with electronic library
    Portable Color printer/copier/scanner
    Printer paper
    Printer ink
    Manual typewriter
    Writing pads
    Pencil sharpeners
    Magnifying glasses
    Reading glasses

    9. Information broker/interpreter
    NOAA Weather Radio receiver
    WWV/WWVH time standard receiver
    Trunking multi-band scanner
    Multi-band receiver
    Amateur Radio HF transceiver
    Amateur Radio VHF/UHF transceiver
    AM/SSB CB radio
    Semi-pro weather station
    Laptop computer w/translation software
    Portable printer/copier/scanner
    Printer paper
    Printer ink
    Bulletin board
    Markers & eraser
    Chalk & eraser

    10. Small scale propane supplier
    Large home propane tank with wet leg
    Tank scale
    20# propane tank on inverting stand
    1-pound propane bottle refill fitting
    Small freezer
    <1,000 watt generator

    11. Printed parts manufacturer
    3D Printers (plastic & metal)
    Computer & 3D drafting software
    Replacement print heads
    Spare parts
    Large quantities of feed materials
    Large sets of digital designs

    12. home canning equipment & supplies
    13. firewood cutting tools
    14. edged tools & saw sharpening tools
    15. chainsaw chain sharpening/repair tools
    16. printer’s/newspaper publisher’s tools
    17. butcher/meat cutter’s tools
    18. meat processors tools (sausage, etc.)
    19. tanner’s tools
    20. milk processors tools (cheese, etc.)
    21. baker’s tools & supplies
    22. bath house/shower room tools
    23. candle maker’s tools & supplies
    24. gardener’s tools
    25. mechanic’s tools
    26. machinist’s tools – Smithy Granite 1340 Industrial Max metalworking all-in-one machine
    27. woodworker’s tools – Smithy Supershop 220 woodworking all-in-one machine
    28. blacksmith’s tools – Oxygen accumulator, acetylene generator
    29. plumber’s tools
    30. lumber making tools – portable sawmill
    31. electrician’s tools
    32. carpenter’s tools
    33. roofer’s tools
    34. stonemason’s tools
    35. primitive building tools
    36. cobbler/shoe maker’s tools
    37. soap maker’s tools
    38. brewer/wine maker’s tools
    39. distillery tools
    40. miller’s tools
    41. spinner & weaver’s tools (looms)
    42. teaching tools and supplies K-12
    43. smelter/foundry/metal worker’s tools
    44. sheep sheering tools
    45. papermaking tools
    46. rope, cordage, and net making tools
    47. millwright’s tools
    48. farm tools (prepare, sow, cultivate, harvest)
    49. biodiesel equipment & supplies
    50. wood gas generator equipment & supplies
    51. charcoal making tools
    52. black powder making tools

    Skill sets most likely to be needed.

    1. Accountant
    2. Active military
    3. Administrator
    4. Alternative energy specialist
    5. Alternative HVAC specialist
    6. Ammunition re-loader
    7. Appliance repairman
    8. Assayer
    9. Baker
    10. Banker
    11. Barber
    12. Barterer/flea market operator
    13. Basket maker
    14. Bathhouse/shower room operator
    15. Beekeeper
    16. Bicycle Repairman
    17. Biodiesel maker
    18. Black powder maker
    19. Blacksmith
    20. Botanist
    21. Brew master
    22. Brick maker
    23. Bullet caster
    24. Butcher/meat processor
    25. Candle maker
    26. Carpenter
    27. Cartridge maker
    28. Cartwright
    29. Chainsaw chain sharpener
    30. Chandler
    31. Charcoal burner (collier)
    32. Cheese maker
    33. Chemist
    34. Chimney sweep
    35. Cobbler/shoe maker
    36. Coffin maker
    37. Contractor
    38. Cook
    39. Cooper (barrel maker)
    40. Coppersmith
    41. Dentist
    42. Distiller, drinking alcohol
    43. Distiller, fuel alcohol
    44. Distiller, essential oils
    45. Distiller, water
    46. Doctor
    47. Dog trainer
    48. Edged tool & saw sharpener
    49. Electrician
    50. Electronics tech
    51. EMT/Paramedic
    52. Executive
    53. Factory worker
    54. Farmer
    55. Farm hand
    56. Farmer
    57. Farrier
    58. Firefighter
    59. Firewood purveyor
    60. Fisherman
    61. Food canner/processor
    62. Furniture maker
    63. Gardener
    64. Gatherer of wild plants/useful minerals
    65. Glass maker
    66. Goatherd
    67. Goldsmith/silversmith
    68. Gravedigger
    69. Gun dealer
    70. Gunpowder maker
    71. Gunsmith/gun maker
    72. Handyman
    73. Harvester/picker
    74. Heavy equipment operator
    75. Herbalist/mineralist/apothecary
    76. Horse trainer/wrangler
    77. Hunter/trapper
    78. Ice purveyor/harvester/maker
    79. Inventor
    80. Janitor
    81. Knife maker
    82. Knife sharpener
    83. Knitter/crocheter
    84. Laundress/laundry room operator
    85. Leather worker
    86. Librarian
    87. Locksmith
    88. Logger/forester/sawyer
    89. Lumber maker
    90. Machinist
    91. Mechanic
    92. Metal worker
    93. Metallurgist
    94. Midwife
    95. Milk maid
    96. Milk processor
    97. Miller
    98. Millwright
    99. Miner
    100. Mulcher/composter/manure collector
    101. Net maker
    102. Nurse
    103. Nurse's aid
    104. Optician (eyeglass maker)
    105. Orchardman/arborist
    106. Orderly
    107. Paper maker
    108. Police/Law enforcement officer – Sheriff/Marshal/Deputies
    109. Pedi-cab driver
    110. Pest control specialist
    111. Pharmacist
    112. Plumber
    113. Postman
    114. Pottery maker
    115. Pressure canner food storage specialist
    116. Primitive building specialist
    117. Printer/newspaperman
    118. Psychologist/Psychiatrist
    119. Quilter/Quilt maker
    120. Radio Operator
    121. Radio/tv repairman
    122. Rancher
    123. Ranch hand
    124. Repairman
    125. Roofer
    126. Rope/cordage maker
    127. Sail maker
    128. Sailor (Boatswain)
    129. Salesman
    130. Salt maker
    131. Salvage specialist
    132. Sanitation worker
    133. Secretary
    134. Security guard
    135. Shake/shingle maker
    136. Sheep sheerer
    137. Shepherd
    138. Shipwright/boat builder
    139. Shoemaker
    140. Skill At Arms instructor
    141. Small engine mechanic
    142. Smelter/foundry-man
    143. Soap maker
    144. Soldier
    145. Spice purveyor
    146. Spinner/Weaver
    147. Stonemason/brick layer
    148. Student
    149. Sugar maker
    150. Surveyor
    151. Tailor/seamstress
    152. Tanner
    153. Teacher
    154. Thatcher
    155. Tinker
    156. Tire repairman
    157. Tool & die maker
    158. Trade maker
    159. Trader/Wagoner
    160. Trapper
    161. Truck driver
    162. Undertaker
    163. Veterinarian
    164. Watch/clock repairman/maker
    165. Weaver
    166. Welder
    167. Well driller
    168. Wheelwright
    169. Winemaker
    170. Wood gas equipment maker
    171. Woodworker

    A few skills that won’t be in high demand, but would be a good secondary skill

    1. Artist
    2. Author
    3. Beautician
    4. Bookbinder
    5. Book keeper
    6. Candy maker
    7. Clerk
    8. Comedian
    9. Dye maker
    10. Entertainer
    11. Entrepreneur
    12. Government official
    13. Historian
    14. Industrialist
    15. Ink maker
    16. Judge/arbitrator
    17. Karaoke operator
    18. Lawyer
    19. Maid
    20. Massage therapist
    21. Musician
    22. Physicist
    23. Scribe
    24. Secretary
    25. Storyteller
    26. Teller/cashier
    27. Toy & game maker

    Some things I probably won’t get for barter for this reason: If there is a large die off the items will be available to pick up all sorts of places. If there isn’t one, they will still be available through normal channels. But do have a very good stock of your own.

    Knives, especially ‘Cheap’ knives (almost every household has several, plus there are large numbers in stores)
    Clothing (almost every household has a large selection, plus there are plenty in stores)
    Tools (Yes, have a really good set for yourself, and possibly one to barter the use of, but keep the tools)
    Cooking equipment (same as knives)
    Fishing gear (there is a lot of it in people’s homes, plus tons of it in the outdoor stores)

    Just my opinion.

  2. Avatar

    Jeebus Christmas that was long winded…Jerry, get your own blog!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *